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Clare Snyder Clare Snyder is offline
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Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 21:50:11 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 20:45:33 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 16:30:47 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:


Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.

The problem with that statement is "properly connected and soldered".
If it's "properly connected" it doesn't need solder and if it's
soldered you can't tell if it's being held together by the "proper
connection" or by the solder. In any case, it was a Volvo cable that
came on the car, the car was bought new, so if you have a problem with
its manufacture don't point fingers at _me_, point them at Volvo.


Never seen a soldered battery cable from the factory on ANY Volvo.
540, 122, 240 or P1800 series

Note, Swedes must have mad driving skills--I've had two Volvos and
they were both horrible winter cars. Got stuck at the drop of a hat,
didn't like to start, the heater froze on one (not the coolant in the
heater core, the _fan_ managed to get full of ice, freeze, and burn
out the motor).


Where are you driving?? The Volvo was no worse than - and in many
cases much better than - any other compact or midsized rear wheel
drive vehicle in the winter handling department


Ohio, Connecticut, points in between. And I did not have near as much
trouble in the winter with a Lincoln Town Car, Toyota Supra, or
Corvette as I did with the Volvos. None of those struggled to get up
the hill on the way to work and all of them started first time every
time. Hell, there were days when I rode my motorcycle to work because
the Volvo wouldn't move (not wouldn't start, wouldn't _move_--there
was a half an inch of ice on the parking lot and it couldn't manage to
climb up on top of it).

A continental is a TANK, not a compact or mid-size - and your supra
(talking second or third gen) outweighed the Volvo significantly and
most likely also had limited slip. What tires did yhou have on the
Volvo? and what model Volvo?.. If you drove a motorcycle when you
couldn't move with a Volvo you've got ROCKS in your head - and below
your belt.