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  #11   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 02:24 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,989
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn


BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn


Yes, when it came out - double insulted with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/stand...s/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

  #12   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 02:46 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,989
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:31:36 PM UTC-5, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.


The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.


The thing I wonder about is why you are wondering about the three-wire
cord.

The cord that was on it (before the repair began) was only a 2 wire, and
therefore probably the original. He did say that he has shortened it, but
not that he had replaced it. (At about 2:50)

Now, jump ahead to about 8:00 when he tries to put the handle back on. He
notes that the new cord is thicker. That's the first (possible) sign that
the previous cord was only 2 wire and therefore probably the original. But
wait until about 9:45 when he swaps the plug onto the new cord. He compares
the insulation to the original stating "I didn't strip off very much insulation." You can see that the previous cord is only 2 wire.

So, to recap, the cord that was on there was 2 wire, probably the original.
He had at one time shortened that cord due to breaks in the insulation *and*
he (or someone) had replaced the original 2 prong plug with the 3 prong. The
three wire cord only entered the picture when this repair began.

I hope that helps with your wondering. ;-)
  #13   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 05:27 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,789
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasnt something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn


BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.


+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.
  #14   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 05:34 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,789
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.


The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop


*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.
  #15   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 12:56 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,989
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn


BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.


+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.


That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.



  #16   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 03:38 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,789
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasnt something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.


+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.


That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.


Or when people are told to follow the rules, rather than understand
the rules. BTW, this was in IBM.

  #17   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 04:48 PM posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,989
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire.. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger".. I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.


That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.


Or when people are told to follow the rules, rather than understand
the rules. BTW, this was in IBM.


I used to work at a huge manufacturing/chemical plant. "Safety First" posters
everywhere. Every department had a designated safety officer(s). Cash awards
were given if a someone pointed out a safety issue.

As an IT tech I used to go everywhere within the plant. I won numerous
cash awards for pointing out safety issues but only after I had to convince
the safety officer of that department that it was an issue. Sometimes I
had to escalate the issue because the safety officer just didn't get the
point. The lack of common sense was really scary.
  #18   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 04:48 PM posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,965
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.


The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop


*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.


Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn

  #19   Report Post  
Old December 22nd 18, 05:04 PM posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,965
Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t

e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses



The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasnt something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi


is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe


not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu


this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently



I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn


Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.


I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so Ill not be
betting any precious beverages.

But Id wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business. A few years ago, I overheard a general contractor musing about
which plumber to use for a minor installation, commenting that one plumber
always pulled a permit regardless, and so chose someone else for the job.

Not that changing the cord is such a disaster, but I bet there are
bewildering and expensive stories aplenty.

Taken with the plastic clock story mentioned in the present thread, one
wonders if its best to do our own repairs.

Joe Gwinn


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Old December 22nd 18, 05:52 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Electrical Connection Technique (A Woodworking Tool Is Involved)

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:05:03 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t

e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses



The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi


is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe


not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu


this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently



I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet.. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn


Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not..

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.


I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be
betting any precious beverages.

But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business.


I wonder if OSHA does sting operations to check these shops.

Other than those fake "mandatory" OSHA training sessions held by
immigration officers, that is.



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