On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 14:34:40 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.

The problem with that statement is "properly connected and soldered".
If it's "properly connected" it doesn't need solder and if it's
soldered you can't tell if it's being held together by the "proper
connection" or by the solder. In any case, it was a Volvo cable that
came on the car, the car was bought new, so if you have a problem with
its manufacture don't point fingers at _me_, point them at Volvo.

Note, Swedes must have mad driving skills--I've had two Volvos and
they were both horrible winter cars. Got stuck at the drop of a hat,
didn't like to start, the heater froze on one (not the coolant in the
heater core, the _fan_ managed to get full of ice, freeze, and burn
out the motor).