Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the video,
but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

..
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

That was one of my issues also. In fact, on that model saw, the Torx screws
are also slotted. A narrow flat blade screw driver works just fine in the
deep handle hole.


I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

The handle itself clamps the cord in 2 places.

1 - The hole formed by the 2 piece handle for the stress relief sleeve is
smaller than the sleeve itself.

2 - Interior from that, the handle pieces form another "hole" that has a
straight plastic bar across it. As long as you leave the outer insulation
on the cord, you basically need a clamp to close the handle before screwing
it back together. You could use the screws to pull it together but I don't
like putting that much stress on screws going into plastic.

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

The full wire bent around the contact screw can often be too much - a
crimprd ting is best, the "split eye" soldered is next best.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

WHich is what "I" prefer

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

Correct - a bit of a "bodge"

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Correct. The original likely had an insulated netalclamp around the
cord. Or it was "bonded" into the strain releif (I've done it with
silicone sealer)
Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


The green wire isn't an OSHA issue, per se, but that cap plug would
not pass. The saw came with a molded plug and most OSHA inspectors
won't pass a "repaired" cord of any type.

I know they don't like manually installed ends - male or female - on
extention cords. Used to repair damaged cords by making one cord into
2. Now I get those cords for home use because they are not allowed on
a job site. Lots of "good" cords are scrapped every year because they
cannot be "repaired"

Some inspectors may not be as "anal" as the ones around here -- -
Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.

On Dec 21, 2018, J. Clarke wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and th

screw is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wi
e does
not squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that the terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don´t like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a ce
tain
manner (e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired diff
rently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-term fix was a green ground wire (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.

The fellow making the repair had made that repair some years earlier.

Joe Gwinn

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 16:48:36 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, J. Clarke wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and th

screw is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wi
e does
not squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that the terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don´t like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a ce
tain
manner (e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired diff
rently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-term fix was a green ground wire (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.

The fellow making the repair had made that repair some years earlier.

Not the _plug_, the _cord_. He did not say that he had replaced the
_cord_ earlier, or if he did I missed it.

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

The full wire bent around the contact screw can often be too much - a
crimprd ting is best, the "split eye" soldered is next best.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

WHich is what "I" prefer

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

Correct - a bit of a "bodge"

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Correct. The original likely had an insulated netalclamp around the
cord. Or it was "bonded" into the strain releif (I've done it with
silicone sealer)
Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.


The green wire isn't an OSHA issue, per se, but that cap plug would
not pass. The saw came with a molded plug and most OSHA inspectors
won't pass a "repaired" cord of any type.

I know they don't like manually installed ends - male or female - on
extention cords. Used to repair damaged cords by making one cord into
2. Now I get those cords for home use because they are not allowed on
a job site. Lots of "good" cords are scrapped every year because they
cannot be "repaired"

Some inspectors may not be as "anal" as the ones around here -- -
Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.
Reading my reply I guess I should proofread my replies -fat finger
syndrome hit again

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

Yes, when it came out - double insulted with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/stand...s/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:31:36 PM UTC-5, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does
not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.

The thing I wonder about is why you are wondering about the three-wire
cord.

The cord that was on it (before the repair began) was only a 2 wire, and
therefore probably the original. He did say that he has shortened it, but
not that he had replaced it. (At about 2:50)

Now, jump ahead to about 8:00 when he tries to put the handle back on. He
notes that the new cord is thicker. That's the first (possible) sign that
the previous cord was only 2 wire and therefore probably the original. But
wait until about 9:45 when he swaps the plug onto the new cord. He compares
the insulation to the original stating "I didn't strip off very much insulation." You can see that the previous cord is only 2 wire.

So, to recap, the cord that was on there was 2 wire, probably the original.
He had at one time shortened that cord due to breaks in the insulation *and*
he (or someone) had replaced the original 2 prong plug with the 3 prong. The
three wire cord only entered the picture when this repair began.

I hope that helps with your wondering. ;-)

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.

Or when people are told to follow the rules, rather than understand
the rules. BTW, this was in IBM.

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire.. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger".. I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.

Or when people are told to follow the rules, rather than understand
the rules. BTW, this was in IBM.

I used to work at a huge manufacturing/chemical plant. "Safety First" posters
everywhere. Every department had a designated safety officer(s). Cash awards
were given if a someone pointed out a safety issue.

As an IT tech I used to go everywhere within the plant. I won numerous
cash awards for pointing out safety issues but only after I had to convince
the safety officer of that department that it was an issue. Sometimes I
had to escalate the issue because the safety officer just didn't get the
point. The lack of common sense was really scary.

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe

not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be
betting any precious beverages.

But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business. A few years ago, I overheard a general contractor musing about
which plumber to use for a minor installation, commenting that one plumber
always pulled a permit regardless, and so chose someone else for the job.

Not that changing the cord is such a disaster, but I bet there are
bewildering and expensive stories aplenty.

Taken with the plastic clock story mentioned in the present thread, one
wonders if it´s best to do our own repairs.

Joe Gwinn

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:05:03 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe

not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet.. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not..

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be
betting any precious beverages.

But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business.

I wonder if OSHA does sting operations to check these shops.

Other than those fake "mandatory" OSHA training sessions held by
immigration officers, that is.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 09:52:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:05:03 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe

not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be
betting any precious beverages.

But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business.

I wonder if OSHA does sting operations to check these shops.

Other than those fake "mandatory" OSHA training sessions held by
immigration officers, that is.
Our local electrical tool repair depot always uses manufacturer
supplied or authorized replacement cords unless they are no longer
available, where they usually try to use a similar cord from the
suppliers other products, or a competitors part that is functionally
similar. They virtually NEVER use a "made up " cord.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:04:56 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe

not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be
betting any precious beverages.

But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business. A few years ago, I overheard a general contractor musing about
which plumber to use for a minor installation, commenting that one plumber
always pulled a permit regardless, and so chose someone else for the job.

Not that changing the cord is such a disaster, but I bet there are
bewildering and expensive stories aplenty.

Taken with the plastic clock story mentioned in the present thread, one
wonders if it´s best to do our own repairs.

Joe Gwinn

Another component to this discussion is who pays the repair depot to
re-assemble the tool??
Generally the "diagnosis" dissassembly is not charged out.
Our local repair center usually has a pretty good stack of "abandoned"
non-repairable tools. What does the contractor want an unuseable tool
for???

I have had several tools that replacement parts were no longer
available for, which, upon further investigation could be "updated" by
replacing one or two extra parts (of a sub-assembly) so currently
available parts could be used. One required replacement of the entire
plastic handle when the original switch and switch cover were no
longer available (the handle for the tool's replacement fit perfectly)
and another required replacement of the entire"ram" portion of a
SawzAll when the bearing portion was no longer available. Again, the
parts from the tools successor fit perfectly as an assembly (something
like $20 worth of parts instead of $9 - on a $139 tool)

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:
SNIPPED

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".


I take more exception to his statement that the position of the
wires (black vs white) inside the tool doesn't matter. There is a
reason ALL double insulated devices have "polarized" plugs!

A 3 prong plug, if properly wired, plays the part of a "polarized
plug" by ensuring the neutral wire of the tool always finds the
neutral of the outlet - - -


That said - the PROPER polarized cord, correctly connected, is the
PROPER way to repair it.

What he did - with the exception of disregarding the "polarity" of the
cord was likely "safe" for home and personal use but would NOT pass on
a job-site.
I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 1:19:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:
SNIPPED

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".


I take more exception to his statement that the position of the
wires (black vs white) inside the tool doesn't matter. There is a
reason ALL double insulated devices have "polarized" plugs!

That one was on my list too. There were a number of things that I took
exception to, which was why I asked my question about the "homemade ring
connector". With all the other things that I considered "wrong" I was
wondering if I should add that to my list.

I laughed at one of his other lines, in reference to blowing the saw dust
out of the handle. "Repair shops don't do it, so I'm not going to either."

I have my own saying about keeping things clean: "If I'm cleaning it, I'm
looking at it."

I keep my vehicles as close to spotless as possible, inside and out. If
I'm vacuuming it, I'm looking in every nook and cranny. I might see a
damaged seat belt anchor or a lose wire under a seat. If I'm wiping down
the door jambs, I might find rust. If I'm wiping down the engine, I might
see oil seepage.

The same goes for blowing the saw dust out of the handle as long as I have
it open. It can't hurt, it can only help.


A 3 prong plug, if properly wired, plays the part of a "polarized
plug" by ensuring the neutral wire of the tool always finds the
neutral of the outlet - - -


That said - the PROPER polarized cord, correctly connected, is the
PROPER way to repair it.

What he did - with the exception of disregarding the "polarity" of the
cord was likely "safe" for home and personal use but would NOT pass on
a job-site.
I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?
70-30 is 376F. 63-37, which is the lowest melting point lead solder
is 361F.
60-40 - the most common electrical/electronic solder is up there at
370F as well.
Eutectic solders do not have a "plastic"stage - they melt and solidify
at virtually the same temperature making poor or "cold" joints
slightly less likely.

DerbyDad03 writes:
On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote=
:

=20
Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety k=
nowledge just so=20
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.


Assuming the story is actually factual. It sounds more like
a "I heard from someone who heard from someone" to me.

On 12/22/18 1:34 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.


The only thing I was thinking was a loose connection that would cause
arcing.
That could certainly melt... and weld. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 12/22/18 2:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/22/18 1:34 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare

wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
Â* wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
Â* wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in
):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph
Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in
):


Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video
shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for
creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this
technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says
and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection
method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto
the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it
ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as
discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration
testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts.Â* I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once.Â* Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine.Â* Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance.Â* Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind.Â* There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.
Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Â* Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.


The only thing I was thinking was a loose connection that would cause
arcing.
That could certainly melt... and weld.Â* :-)


https://photos.app.goo.gl/HRzJKWSEHHmgKE3X7


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

I have no idea what kind of solder Volvo used.

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Doesn't matter. A little resistance in the joint and lots of current
will heat it enough to melt solder. Remember, a car battery has
enough juice to weld with.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 14:34:40 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.

The problem with that statement is "properly connected and soldered".
If it's "properly connected" it doesn't need solder and if it's
soldered you can't tell if it's being held together by the "proper
connection" or by the solder. In any case, it was a Volvo cable that
came on the car, the car was bought new, so if you have a problem with
its manufacture don't point fingers at _me_, point them at Volvo.

Note, Swedes must have mad driving skills--I've had two Volvos and
they were both horrible winter cars. Got stuck at the drop of a hat,
didn't like to start, the heater froze on one (not the coolant in the
heater core, the _fan_ managed to get full of ice, freeze, and burn
out the motor).

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 16:30:47 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:


Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.

The problem with that statement is "properly connected and soldered".
If it's "properly connected" it doesn't need solder and if it's
soldered you can't tell if it's being held together by the "proper
connection" or by the solder. In any case, it was a Volvo cable that
came on the car, the car was bought new, so if you have a problem with
its manufacture don't point fingers at _me_, point them at Volvo.

Never seen a soldered battery cable from the factory on ANY Volvo.
540, 122, 240 or P1800 series

Note, Swedes must have mad driving skills--I've had two Volvos and
they were both horrible winter cars. Got stuck at the drop of a hat,
didn't like to start, the heater froze on one (not the coolant in the
heater core, the _fan_ managed to get full of ice, freeze, and burn
out the motor).

Where are you driving?? The Volvo was no worse than - and in many
cases much better than - any other compact or midsized rear wheel
drive vehicle in the winter handling department

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 14:55:04 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 1:34 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.


The only thing I was thinking was a loose connection that would cause
arcing.
That could certainly melt... and weld. :-)
And it could destroy a crimped connection too. My bet is a loose
connection overheated the crimped connectionand it let go - with no
solder involved.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 20:45:33 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 16:30:47 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:


Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.

The problem with that statement is "properly connected and soldered".
If it's "properly connected" it doesn't need solder and if it's
soldered you can't tell if it's being held together by the "proper
connection" or by the solder. In any case, it was a Volvo cable that
came on the car, the car was bought new, so if you have a problem with
its manufacture don't point fingers at _me_, point them at Volvo.

Never seen a soldered battery cable from the factory on ANY Volvo.
540, 122, 240 or P1800 series

Note, Swedes must have mad driving skills--I've had two Volvos and
they were both horrible winter cars. Got stuck at the drop of a hat,
didn't like to start, the heater froze on one (not the coolant in the
heater core, the _fan_ managed to get full of ice, freeze, and burn
out the motor).

Where are you driving?? The Volvo was no worse than - and in many
cases much better than - any other compact or midsized rear wheel
drive vehicle in the winter handling department

Ohio, Connecticut, points in between. And I did not have near as much
trouble in the winter with a Lincoln Town Car, Toyota Supra, or
Corvette as I did with the Volvos. None of those struggled to get up
the hill on the way to work and all of them started first time every
time. Hell, there were days when I rode my motorcycle to work because
the Volvo wouldn't move (not wouldn't start, wouldn't _move_--there
was a half an inch of ice on the parking lot and it couldn't manage to
climb up on top of it).

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 20:48:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 14:55:04 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 1:34 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:26:58 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:49:21 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/22/18 12:38 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:11:47 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 11:48:54 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 22, 2018, wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:56:57 -0500, Clare
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:31:34 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in
the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly
he should solder the loop

*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and
vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will
work-harden at that point.

Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed
upthread.

I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.

If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then
no soldering - must be crimped.

Joe Gwinn
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be
supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"

There's another issue with solder on connections that carry
significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with
the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure
it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it
was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables
were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I
figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the
solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a
meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the
problem went away.

Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's
still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure
connectors and not solder.


What the heck kind of solder did you use?
Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?

Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder
paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ).
Plumbing solder not sure.

Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be
the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically
secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist
AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and
mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint.
(gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or
"crimp-welded" electrical connector.
Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other
problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the
connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end
does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.


The only thing I was thinking was a loose connection that would cause
arcing.
That could certainly melt... and weld. :-)
And it could destroy a crimped connection too. My bet is a loose
connection overheated the crimped connectionand it let go - with no
solder involved.

Nope. There was no sign of a crimp. There was a fitting that
appeared to be die-cast--trying to crimp it would likely have busted
it. It had a hole in it. There was a cable that was by that time a
loose sliding fit in the hole. The cable would slide in and out,
there was nothing holding it except solder and the solder was mostly
gone.

As for being loose, I had to use a breaker bar to get the damned thing
off.

Sorry, but your apologetics for soldered joints are falling on deaf
ears here.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 08:48:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 09:13:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.

The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but
this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.

+1

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job site
if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add
a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with
the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector
was happy.

That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety knowledge just so
that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.

Or when people are told to follow the rules, rather than understand
the rules. BTW, this was in IBM.

I used to work at a huge manufacturing/chemical plant. "Safety First" posters
everywhere. Every department had a designated safety officer(s). Cash awards
were given if a someone pointed out a safety issue.

As an IT tech I used to go everywhere within the plant. I won numerous
cash awards for pointing out safety issues but only after I had to convince
the safety officer of that department that it was an issue. Sometimes I
had to escalate the issue because the safety officer just didn't get the
point. The lack of common sense was really scary.

That's another good one. They wouldn't pay engineers for safety, or
other suggestions but they would pay hourly staff. I'd just point out
problems to my technician and he'd collect the easy money. Often it
was stupid things like a sign blocking an Exit sign, and such. The
safety people would get ****ed-off because they were supposed to catch
such things.