On 10/29/18 12:55 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
On 10/28/18 8:32 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
I'm waiting on the window system to get here for my 3-season
Patio. In the mean time, I'm finishing up a lot of details and
trim work, including putting down a section of the kitchen
flooring that had to be taken up, temporarily.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bi8qjLdnUQTjYwj69
The joists underneath this section of floor were very rotted
which helped cause a pretty good dip in the floor. Because we
were pouring a new concrete pad for the patio, I was able to cut
out most of the rotted joists, shore everything up, and replace
that section with the concrete pad.
For many reasons, it was not feasible or even a good idea lift
the joists up to take the dip out of the floor. But I didn't
want the new pad to dip with the old floor, so I had the pad
poured level and figured I'd shim the sub-floor to meet the
pad.
That's where I'm at. There's a 3/4" difference in height from
the left side, 12ft. over to the right side and it's only about
16" wide. In my mind I have 2 options...
I see this scenario as a trip hazard if you try to fix it in 16
inches... As such, I'd be inclined to remove the flooring and
sub-floor for about 4 feet and then place solid wood tapered
shims on top of the existing joists to blend the two levels. Then
reinstall the sub-floor and finish flooring. Spread over 4 feet
the trip hazard would be pretty well eliminated.
Regarding the shims, I'd attach them to the joists with glue and
finish nails to avoid splitting them. After the glue dries nail
or screw the sub-floor down and go from there.
Did you look at the pictures? There's a 12ft by 16in portion next
to a wall that contains a French door. The trip hazard is what I'm
trying to avoid and will with whatever technique I choose.
If we were doing the kitchen remodel along with this patio
addition, I would likely have had the whole finished floor and
probably the sub-floor ripped up and replaced by now. :-)
But it's silly to do that for this little stripe of flooring.
From your description and the photos it looked to me like the
concrete was level across the width and along the French door. This
while the wooden floor dips and gets lower and lower than the
concrete as you move left to right. The transition from the wood to
the concrete is where you have the problem.
Sort of. The wood floor dips from right to left, is higher than the
concrete on the right, and on the same plane at the left. But yeah,
that's what's happening.
I'd think that if you tried to blend the two in the strip of wood
sub-floor shown you'd have a rather abrupt angle at the 3/4" variance
end. That is why I suggested removing a bit more of the flooring and
the sub-flooring the blend over a wider area by putting tapered shims
on the joists (under the sub-floor).
I'd think you have the same rather abrupt angle using floor leveling
compound if you only worked in the sub-floor area shown.
There may be something you can't see in the pics. I added another photo
in the album to better show what's happening at that transition.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8kX2emmUY3rLfTpi8
There are 2 layers of plywood subfloor, which is very common from this
time period. They put down 5/8", frame the house, then lay down 1/2" on
top. When I pulled up the old finished flooring, I also pulled up the
1/2" layer of plywood underneath it. The horizontal plane of that
little step is my horizontal guide for the new section to meet it.
Whatever I do to shim the new section to the old section will sort of
follow this little step and it will continue the plane of the old floor
the remaining 18" until it hits the wall and door threshold. That's all
I'm doing... continuing the flat plane of the floor to meet the wall.
Also, if the resulting "sub-floor" (wood and concrete) do not
smoothly flow from one to the other there is some risk of the
laminate flooring cracking (a real problem with the fiber/particle
board laminates from what I've seen in a couple older home
do-it-yourself projects).
That's one reason I'm considering the leveling compound as it will fill
everything and be totally smooth on top. However, in the time it's
taken me to type all of these posts, I could probably have been done
with the wood route and had the old flooring put down. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com