"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
On 10/28/18 8:32 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
I'm waiting on the window system to get here for my 3-season Patio.
In the mean time, I'm finishing up a lot of details and trim work,
including putting down a section of the kitchen flooring that had to be
taken up, temporarily.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bi8qjLdnUQTjYwj69

The joists underneath this section of floor were very rotted which helped
cause a pretty good dip in the floor. Because we were pouring a new
concrete pad for the patio, I was able to cut out most of the rotted
joists, shore everything up, and replace that section with the concrete
pad.

For many reasons, it was not feasible or even a good idea lift the
joists up to take the dip out of the floor. But I didn't want the new
pad to dip with the old floor, so I had the pad poured level and figured
I'd shim the sub-floor to meet the pad.

That's where I'm at. There's a 3/4" difference in height from the left
side, 12ft. over to the right side and it's only about 16" wide. In my
mind I have 2 options...

I see this scenario as a trip hazard if you try to fix it in 16 inches...
As such, I'd be inclined to remove the flooring and sub-floor for about 4
feet and then place solid wood tapered shims on top of the existing
joists to blend the two levels. Then reinstall the sub-floor and finish
flooring. Spread over 4 feet the trip hazard would be pretty well
eliminated.

Regarding the shims, I'd attach them to the joists with glue and finish
nails to avoid splitting them. After the glue dries nail or screw the
sub-floor down and go from there.


Did you look at the pictures?
There's a 12ft by 16in portion next to a wall that contains a French door.
The trip hazard is what I'm trying to avoid and will with whatever
technique I choose.

If we were doing the kitchen remodel along with this patio addition, I
would likely have had the whole finished floor and probably the sub-floor
ripped up and replaced by now. :-)

But it's silly to do that for this little stripe of flooring.

From your description and the photos it looked to me like the concrete was
level across the width and along the French door. This while the wooden
floor dips and gets lower and lower than the concrete as you move left to
right. The transition from the wood to the concrete is where you have the
problem.

I'd think that if you tried to blend the two in the strip of wood sub-floor
shown you'd have a rather abrupt angle at the 3/4" variance end. That is why
I suggested removing a bit more of the flooring and the sub-flooring the
blend over a wider area by putting tapered shims on the joists (under the
sub-floor).

I'd think you have the same rather abrupt angle using floor leveling
compound if you only worked in the sub-floor area shown.

Also, if the resulting "sub-floor" (wood and concrete) do not smoothly flow
from one to the other there is some risk of the laminate flooring cracking
(a real problem with the fiber/particle board laminates from what I've seen
in a couple older home do-it-yourself projects).