On 20/08/2018 00:42, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2018 15:06:22 +0100, John Rumm

That is one of the areas where an ID is much better - because the torque
is delivered in short impulses, you get far less reaction at the
drill... much of it is dissipated accelerating the inertia of the tool
body, rather than twisting your wrist.

Ah, so the focus really is on 'impact' as opposed to 'driver'?

It drives screws in a different way to a normal driver... Bit like the
difference between puling on a spanner, and tapping it round with a hammer.


Possibly...

"Electric screwdriver" can include anything from the 2.8V B&D
screwdriver up really - at the low end they turn and can spin screws in
and out but usually lack the oomph to do the final tightening.

That is my experience of them (but not with my Fat Max drill etc).

You move
on up through drill/drivers of varies sizes to some that have fairly
significant torque.

Ok.

Big DDs have plenty of torque (my latest 18V Mak has something in excess
of 90Nm - plus a big FOff side handle to save twisting your wrist off if
you plan to use all of it). That's the same amount of torque as my 10.8V
ID - however the latter does not need a side handle or the wrists of
Hercules to sue safely.


The hand held ID:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Impact_driver

Is a different device altogether - and is like a smaller electric
derivation of a pneumatic impact wrench.

Sorry, are you saying the link is to what you are saying has become
your go-to against a manual screwdriver as it seems to confirm
everything I thought might be the case against them V a good cordless
drill, plus some I hadn't considered (like the noise levels)? ;-(

The link shows a picture of my older 18V ID - I tend to use that (or its
replacement) and the 10.8V ones for most things. Manual screwdrivers are
occasionally handy for taking apart computers etc, but most other stuff
I do with the ID.

I have a 12V rattle gun that is less of a rattle and more of a
clunk-clunk-clunk and I think the only time I used it (a tight wheel
nut) it didn't do any more than I could with the spider brace.

You can get significant toque on a manual brace etc - although somewhat
more physical effort. I would have thought that a 12V ID is probably a
bit small for wheel nuts... although they are popular with scaffolders.

This one wouldn't be as it requires an external 12V battery. ;-)

Ah, yup the kind of thing designed to sit in the boot waiting to free a
wheel nut after clipping its leads onto the car battery.

The only time I might use an electric drill / driver on any fastener
is when doing loads when speed is more important that finish or
tightening torque, like assembling a wooden shed. Eg, On anything
'important' I much prefer the feel and control of a manual screwdriver
(or spanner etc).

Do you use an electric driver on your furniture builds OOI John?

I use powered screw driving for *everything* unless I am forced to do it
some other way! These days I will reach for one of my IDs in preference
to a normal drill/driver in most of those cases.

Ok?

I have a small 10.8V Makita ID that I use more on furniture and lighter
fixings (although it will happily drive a 2.5" 12 gauge screw into a
wall plug if you want it to). Mainly because its very small and light.
Easy to get into tight places and reach screws that would be difficult
by hand (inside cabinets etc).

Ok, that latter statement sounds like an advantage (over a pistol grip
drill), like my old Bosch electric screwdriver. ;-)

This is my one:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...pact-d-p154827

I got it in a twin pack with a small Combi drill, which is much the same
size - but a little longer with the chuck on it. You can get a sense of
scale from the picture of that in my hand:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...AndSpacing.jpg

When building stuff, then my 18V ID is my preference since it will lob
in 2" twinthread screws without a pilot, with next to zero effort or
fatigue on me.

Like my drill (has, 200 times in one session). I can see I'll have to
get an ID, just to see what the buzz is all about (and possibly some
earplugs for my Tinnitus). ;-)

They are not so loud locally (not as bad as a hammer drill say) - but
the noise does travel more through the fabric of a building.

Can you recommend a VFM one ... one that I can afford to leave in a
draw if it doesn't turn out to be a boon for me? Was the recent Lidl
one a good deal?

Don't know - not seen the Lidl one. If you already have a set of
something reasonable with battery and charger, then it is quite cheap to
by a decent one "body only" and use your existing batts and charger.

To be fair, before I got my first one, I was sceptical as to whether it
would prove better than my combi drill. Having got used to it, I very
rarely use a drill from screw driving... (plasterboard screws with a
shrouded bit being about the only time the DD is better - quieter and
you want the thing to "cam out" when the screw gets tight!)

--
Cheers,

John.

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