On 8/13/2018 10:54 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
....


You're the second person to mention this, so I should be very clear that
the well itself is 500 feet deep and it has, AFAIK, its own pump at the
bottom.

Ah! That's significant new factoid...

Clearly I have separate breakers for the well pump versus the booster pump.
They are two different pumps.

The well pump brings up the water and stores it in tanks that are 10 feet
high. The tanks don't develop enough water pressure for the house, so the
booster pump boosts the pressure for the house.

OK, what you've not shown picture of is the connections to the well pump
other than just the box but not where the signal comes from.

We run just off pressure in the storage tank; the pressure switch is
40-60 with no additional booster. Sounds like you're running an
essentially unpressurized tank and relying on the booster pump for
distribution pressure entirely.

I'm not sure what the gauge is reading because the gauge may be reading the
pressure of the 10 foot column of water that is only a few feet behind the
pump.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5845028pressure08.jpg

So the main thing I have to figure out is what that gauge is trying to tell
me.

....

I think it might NOT be the pump though.
That's why I need to ask how the pressure switch works.

I'd suspect that's highly unlikely to have caused the previous
noise...the question will be when it fail next time to look at position
of contacts; did they fail to close? If they function and you've got
power, then it's the thermal switch that's cut out.

The one thing that perplexes me is that I don't see ANY indication of the
bladder pressure being measured.

It looks like what's being measured is the INPUT pressure to the pump, not
the OUTPUT pressure.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9113867pressure02.jpg

But that makes no sense.
Does it?

Others answered most of the other regarding pieces-parts; there's no
need for the identical motor down to being GE; form factor, HP and
service rating are the key items...

The "frame" is what matters, I think, as long as it's about 1HP and 3450
RPM, which is the easy part. I'm not sure what the "frame" is though.
Is the "frame" on this sticker?
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2105511pressure05.jpg

Not really conventional frame number; the "jet pump motor" describes the
mounting flange arrangement which is what you have to match to the pump.

....

Yup. The pump appears to have two switches that control it.
a. The water level indicator relay (which is known to be working fine!)
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1279096pressure07.jpg

Never seen water level as input; what would help would be to see what
the inputs to that relay come from...it's not possible to tell which
pipe goes/comes to/from in that mess of stuff hooked to the tank...are
you sure somewhere along there there isn't another pressure tap going to
the well pump pressure switch? I don't know what "level" they'd be
measuring or where that sensor would be...that and an overall plumbing
diagram is what we're missing.

b. The booster pressure indicator relay (which is a mystery to me)
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5845028pressure08.jpg

The "mystery" is that there is NOTHING coming out of the booster by way of
pressure sensors that I can see.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5816454pressure03.jpg

The gauge seems to be INPUT pressure, but that makes no sense.
Who cares what the input pressure is.
The OUTPUT pressure is what matters, right?

That's common pressure at the outlet...was pump running or off at the time?

75 psi is pretty high for domestic water altho if you've got long runs
and small diameter feeds there may be sufficient pressure drop before it
gets to the house...

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