On 8/13/18 7:37 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
On 13 Aug 2018 16:37:22 GMT, Uncle Monster wrote:

Have you considered calling a plumber?

You're joking, right?

My main questions for those who have experience with such things, a
1. What do I look for to find the switch for low bladder pressure?
2. What experience can you impart on testing/replacing motor bearings?
3. If I replace the motor, what are the important specs to match?

Anyone who says "call a plumber" for something like this doesn't belong in
this newsgroup and never did. They're out of their league. The people who
do belong in this newsgroup know something about home repair other than how
to use a telephone.

Moving forward for those who have experience troubleshooting motors, here's
the plate on the motor:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1473519pressure05.jpg
General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

I'm not sure how a "jet pump" motor differs from a "pump" motor (do you
know the difference?) but I found this troubleshooting guide:
http://www.flotecpump.com/residentialpage_resource_ts_jetpump.aspx

It's not hard to find a "jet pump motor" on the net, but it is almost
impossible to find *that* jet pump motor on the net. What matters?

The GE Model Lookup for repair manuals & parts diagrams comes up broken:
https://www.ge.com/keywords/model-number-lookup

The well-tank not-empty switch is continuously closed (as it should be):
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1279096pressure07.jpg

There must be a bladder-pressure switch somewhere but I don't know what to
look for yet - does anyone here have that knowledge of what to look for?
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5816454pressure03.jpg

The gauge, if accurate, is indicating 70+ psi pressure at the pump itself:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6584167pressure06.jpg

70 psi is probably the shutdown point. 50 psi will probably be the
pump starting point.

The relay doesn't appear to show any visible anomalies that I can see:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6757739pressure04.jpg

The thing you're calling the relay is the pressure switch.
Notice the tube
leading away from it.

I think (but am not sure) that thermal overload may be occurring:
https://www.l-3.com/private/ieee/Motor%20Protection%20Principles.pdf

My main questions for those who have experience with such things, a
1. What do I look for to find the switch for low bladder pressure?
2. What experience can you impart on testing/replacing motor bearings?
3. If I replace the motor, what are the important specs to match?

I'd probably just replace the entire pump. There will be wear on
the impeller
so it won't be at its most efficient.