View Single Post
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
trader_4 trader_4 is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Water pressure booster pump won't start consistently - do yourebuild the bearings?

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 8:37:09 PM UTC-4, Arlen Holder wrote:
On 13 Aug 2018 16:37:22 GMT, Uncle Monster wrote:

Have you considered calling a plumber?


You're joking, right?

My main questions for those who have experience with such things, a
1. What do I look for to find the switch for low bladder pressure?
2. What experience can you impart on testing/replacing motor bearings?
3. If I replace the motor, what are the important specs to match?

Anyone who says "call a plumber" for something like this doesn't belong in
this newsgroup and never did. They're out of their league. The people who
do belong in this newsgroup know something about home repair other than how
to use a telephone.

Moving forward for those who have experience troubleshooting motors, here's
the plate on the motor:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1473519pressure05.jpg
General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

I'm not sure how a "jet pump" motor differs from a "pump" motor (do you
know the difference?) but I found this troubleshooting guide:
http://www.flotecpump.com/residentialpage_resource_ts_jetpump.aspx


IDK why you call it a pressure booster pump instead of just a pump.
It sounds like it's a jet pump and the only one. Jet pumps differ from
a piston pump in that they can bring up water from depths that are lower
than the max lift of a piston pump, which I think is like ~28 ft?
They use two pipes, one pushes water down the well to the other part
of the pump where a jet action picks up water and it comes back on
the other line.






It's not hard to find a "jet pump motor" on the net, but it is almost
impossible to find *that* jet pump motor on the net. What matters?


Frame size, voltage, speed, hp and maybe if it's suited for a wet location,
etc if it's exposed.




The GE Model Lookup for repair manuals & parts diagrams comes up broken:
https://www.ge.com/keywords/model-number-lookup

The well-tank not-empty switch is continuously closed (as it should be):
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1279096pressure07.jpg

There must be a bladder-pressure switch somewhere but I don't know what to
look for yet - does anyone here have that knowledge of what to look for?
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5816454pressure03.jpg


The thing you're calling the relay is the pressure switch.



The gauge, if accurate, is indicating 70+ psi pressure at the pump itself:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6584167pressure06.jpg

The relay doesn't appear to show any visible anomalies that I can see:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6757739pressure04.jpg

I think (but am not sure) that thermal overload may be occurring:
https://www.l-3.com/private/ieee/Motor%20Protection%20Principles.pdf

My main questions for those who have experience with such things, a
1. What do I look for to find the switch for low bladder pressure?
2. What experience can you impart on testing/replacing motor bearings?
3. If I replace the motor, what are the important specs to match?