On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 05:47:36 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 24 Jul 2018 19:14:59 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

Drive a stout sheet metal screw into the seal and pop it out wit
sonething like a claw hammer. Then grease the (new) seal, inside and
out, and carefully drive it in.

Aha! Thanks for explaining how to remove the old seal, as I didn't know if
I should unbolt that plate or not to get it out. If it's that easy, I
really need to do it even though the original isn't leaking.

This is a picture where the rear oil seal comes with the paper gasket:
https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4100/9cc30/products/9104/images/10439/RM957__95167.1426114211.1280.1280.jpg

It looks like they also call it a timing-cover seal (which is strange):
https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-timing-cover-seal-9031188003

The timing cover seal is the FRONT seal

Even though it's in the back of the engine:
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~seal~engine~rear~oil~90311-88003.html

It does have a "retainer" which I guess is the aluminum housing around it:
https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-rear-main-seal-retainer-1138175012

The Toyota dealer parts people screwed up again, in that they "said" they
had the rear main oil seal in stock, but they were talking about the wrong
seal. Apparently they have something called an "engine seal" and they call
this one the "transmission seal" (where I had explained clearly over the
phone that it's directly behind the flywheel). Sigh. (At the three
different brand dealers I go to, the parts guys always seem to be clueless
about parts, where I'm amazed at how long it takes them to look stuff up,
for example, where I can find things quicker than they can).


The first 2 links show the correct part
They printed this out for me which is the part they should have ordered.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1320830oilseal01.jpg

Their P/N (11381A) doesn't fit with what a search finds (90311-88003).
The 88003should bethe right part

I'd really like to replace that seal even though it isn't leaking, because
if it does ever leak, you have to remove the transmission to get to it.

I'll try another dealer tomorrow (there are two within 30 miles of me).

and DEFINITELY replace that pilot bearing!!!!!!!

Yup. I'm taking all your advice. The kit comes with a pilot bearing:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7378316clutch01.jpg

You can rent a pilot bearing puller slide hammer from
most parts suppliers with a tool rental program. If it doesn't sound
like a cement mixer now, it soon will - - - -

The amazing thing is that I went to two parts stores today, both of which
rent out the pilot bearing puller and slide hammer (separately), where the
amazing thing is that the bearing pullers are all TOO BIG to fit inside
this pilot bearing!

The people at both stores tried to fit it inside the new bearing, which,
luckily, I had in my pocket, where they're too fat even though you can
slide the teeth forward one at a time.

It's pretty amazing since this looks like a pretty standard engine and so
it has a pretty standard pilot bearing, right? The pilot bearing is a "6201
RS" which is a very common bearing for lots of shafts.

The tool is two pieces, as you noted.
1. A slide hammer that screws into the back end of the tool
2. The tool itself, which has both sliding and expanding jaws

Yet, both bearing pullers I tested at those two parts stores were too big.

I could rent one, and then grind it down to fit, but that would be abuse.
If I could have found a tool that fit, I would have bought it already.

I've done it with a long 6mm bolt and nut, Put the nut on the bolt.
Stick the end withthe nut through the hole in the bearing. Inset a
small screwdriver to keep the nut from turning and thread the bolt in
untill the nut pushes the bearing out.

I'm not worried though, as the packed-grease method Terry Coombs suggested
might work anyway, and where I might have to do that if I can't find a
small enough pilot-bearing removal tool.
Works a lot better on "bushings" than "bearings" but could work. Use
THICK grease!!