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Clare Snyder Clare Snyder is offline
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Default Clutch bolts and locktite

On Mon, 23 Jul 2018 17:44:36 -0500, Hank Rogers
wrote:

Bla Bla Bla

Rear oil seal is a little more trouble. Need to remove the oil pan and
maybe even the rear crank main bearing. Again, if its not leaking, leave
it for the next overhaul.


Not true. When the flywheel is off the rear main seal replacement is
a 10 minute job.

Always replace the pressure plate and disc and the throwout bearing.
Often, if the friction plate hasn't worn down to where the rivets have
badly eaten up the flywheel, you don't need a new or regrind on the
flywheel. If the scoring or grooves are small, the new clutch plate will
wear in and work fine, although it will have slightly less lifetime
since the grooving takes up a tiny bit of it's thickness during break in.


From the picture supplied, a new clutch will chatter like an angry
chipmunk. ANd NEVER take a chance on the pilot bearing - particularly
if it is a "rolling element" bearing. - which virtually EVERY Toyota
pilot bearing is.

A clutch is exactly the same type mechanism as a brake disk and rotor,
or brake shoes and drums. Use your experience there to guide you.


He has none

Judging when something must be replaced or reground is largely a matter
of experience, so you'll just have to go from there and learn from any
mistakes. There are no magic solutions.

No, but there is "generally accepted practice"
Good luck.

If he follows your instructions he'll need it.