On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 00:11:04 -0700, OFWW
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 02:11:21 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 02 Jun 2018 22:34:23 -0700, OFWW
wrote:

On Sat, 2 Jun 2018 23:41:57 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 6/2/18 11:03 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jun 2018 19:53:25 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 6/2/18 7:37 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jun 2018 16:26:12 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 6/2/18 10:11 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news

Funnier part... finding this pipe under the pad distracted me so much
that I forgot that I had already figured all this out. :-)
I can't use that path because it I would have to take a hard right
turn and then another left to go around the end of the septic system's
leach field. I don't like the prospect of pulling #6 through those
bends on a 100'+ run.

On the far edge of the driveway is a row of 80ft Poplars. Because I
don't want to dig through their major roots, I can't use a ditch-witch
to trench that path.

At the corner of the garage where I intended to start the underground
conduit, there is an expansion joint in the parking area pad with
asphalt expansion joint filler. The path along that joint is far
enough away from the leach bed and far enough from the tree roots that
I can go straight back along that expansion joint.
All I have to do is rent a concrete saw and make one cut a few inches
from the existing expansion joint and then fill it back in with
Quickcrete when I'm done laying the conduit.

That will be easier than hand digging a trench around 3-4" tree roots
and trying to weave the conduit over and under them.



My most recent wiring project was running outdoor rated CAT6 out to the
garage. You're already digging for one set of cable, might it be worth
digging for another? (Cat6 is easy to terminate, just use a punch down
connector and a decent punch tool.)

You can't run network cable close to power cable, though, unless you take
certain precautions. Parallel runs are a bad thing, but if you must go
close to power cables you can enclose the cable in a grounded pipe. I
didn't run in to these problems with my cable run, so I didn't research
them further.

Puckdropper


My buddy is an IT guru and he told me to run CAT10 with the AC and I'd
be fine.

I am Cisco certified, it is not recommended.


60 cycle interference?

In is unsafe to take a chance with high voltage crossing over to a
consumer device. There is also the electromagnetic effect, especially
on an A/C system with its varying loads. On systems with variable
speed drives there are multiple problems, and it is also a Code
violation in most places. It is not even recommended to mix land line
phone lines in the walls, or conduit, and any box.

The twist in CAT cables knocks out a lot of noise but not all noise.

There are more technical reasons as well, but I'd have to look it up,
I just recently threw away all my books, manuals, etc. figuring I have
been retired long enough that I'd not ever need them again.


Well, I may end up running a metal conduit along side to get the
shielding for whatever data wire I run out there.
When I was in TCOM, we microwaved everything, so maybe I'll just do
that. :-)

There is that option, as well as WIFI with the right antennae's.

Wifi _is_ microwave. It runs 2.5 or 5 GHz, both of which are solidly
in the microwave range.


Where is the warning for radiation?
Microwaves travel by line of sight.

See how ridiculous this is all getting?

We
have installed systems at low cost that were acceptable over several
miles.

A wired system might need a signal booster/repeater depending on the
total conduit feet run. I'd be tempted to run an above ground test
setup with a computer at the other end plugged into the power supply
in that bldg and run a speed test via software and see if there are
little to no problems.

Signal booster? Repeater? You really are out of touch. Twisted pair
ethernet is rated for 100 meters with timing being the limiting
factor. You can't extend it with a signal booster or repeater. The
correct means of extending the range is to use a switch and another
100 meter run (hubs don't exist for anything above 10baseT--100baseTX
and gigabit are always switched). If you need an uninterrupted run
longer than 100 meters you need to go to fiber for that run. However
running from a house to a garage should not be 100 meters unless it's
a very large property.


You are full of crap.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Repe...signal+booster
One of many Price has dropped dramatically. From years ago.

Basically a 2 port switch

Can't extend it Eh?

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-DS108.../dp/B00000J4L5

Technically a switch, not a hub

100Mbps hub also useful as a type 2 repeater.

This is all small business/HO type equipment. Also available in the
High end systems.

Sorry you are having such a problems with this but when I hit the
switch for my computer tonight this subject with you is over.

I might have problems with being a bit overcautious here.