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[email protected] gfretwell@aol.com is offline
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Default Upgrading to 300Amp electric service

On Fri, 25 May 2018 17:35:06 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 8:29:35 PM UTC-4, Agua Caliente wrote:
On 5/25/2018 6:04 PM, trader_4 wrote:
The payback is even worse if you have natural gas. They suck up gas
like they suck up electricity, so you typically have to run a bigger
gas pipe from some big tap off, maybe even all the way from the
meter. And gas heats cheaper, so that makes the pay back take longer.
Here, the summer gas bill is under $20, which includes hot water and
some gas grilling. What you're saving is mostly the standby cost,
of the $20, that can't be all that much. Even if it's half, $10 x
12 months = $120. And I just have a basic water heater, for a couple
hundred more you can get higher efficiency too. Running gas, the cost
of the unit, it's a lot to pay back.


+1

My well water temperature is 48F.

I can't imagine what it would feel like to be taking a nice hot morning shower and all of a sudden the libtard energy-saving tankless water heater quits working.Â* Suddenly I'd be standing in a stream of 48F water trying to rinse the shampoo out of my
hair. No thanks, I'll keep 50 gallon tank type water heater.


That's true, with a failure on a tank type, you'd get a more gradual
shift that gives you warning. Also, if the power goes out, you have
40 or 50 gallons of hot water that will last for more than a day
if you use it sparingly. I guess some of the tankless gas units
will fire without power, but not the electric, obviously.


I am not sure I have seen one without an electric igniter. I suppose
you could run the igniter off of a small inverter and a battery tho.
Back in the olden days we had pilot lights and no electrical hook up
at all for the range and the water heater. Life was simpler but the
eco-nazis decided that was wasting gas.