On Thu, 24 May 2018 08:11:37 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...ln3/imt460.pdf
This shows three H2 connections. Is the 220v version just wired with a different plug and cable using the third H2? If so, can someone please give me an amended diagram on how to do this to reduce Amp draw.
I only see one connection to the transformer primary, H1 and H2. The
secondary has several taps that go to the voltage control switch on
the front panel.
If you found a 240 volt transformer, you'd also need to change the fan
and the gas solenoid valve and maybe the control board to 240 volts.
Welder 2: Power MIG 255
Now here's the question, should I really run three 250-feet lengths of 25A-rated (or whatever) wire from the house panel just to be sure --or-- not bother until I pop the breakers -- if ever?
One would hope that the electrician ran #8 or #6 Type NM direct burial
wire. If he used lighter wire then you'll be losing significant
voltage through that wire. If the voltage drop causes you to have to
go to a higher voltage setting on the welder then the welder will draw
more current that if it had the proper voltage.
I would not recommend running multiple lengths of lightweight wire.
First, it will be expensive. Second reason is that while you're
digging in the dirt, you might sever one strand and not realize it.
It should be cheaper to simply abandon the old cable in place and run
the correct size cable. Renting a dirt slitter will make the job very
easy.
It is very unlikely that the home-type breaker will ever trip. Several
years ago when we were looking to have our inductor heaters certified,
I had a long talk with an ETL engineer, mainly about breaker
selection. I was thinking that I'd use a residential-type breaker.
This guy said NO! He said that residential breakers are designed to
carry twice the rated load for a minute. That would have been plenty
of time for the induction heater to become crispy inside. In the end I
found a ChiCom magnetic hydraulic breaker with the second fastest
curve. The fastest is instantaneous.
I tested a sample of the breaker with a direct short while looking at
the current with a Rowkowsky coil. It tripped in a quarter-cycle. I
never knew breakers could be that fast.
Back on-topic, it's very unlikely that you'll trip the panel breaker.
You probably don't need to do anything BUT make sure. You need to
measure the voltage at the welder outlet. A meter with max/min hold
is ideal. Second best is to use your smart phone to video the
multi-meter's display.
Get that set up and then go do some welding. Set the voltage as high
as you'd ever run it and weld away. Then check your min/max meter or
the video and see what you got. At a 5 volt sag, I'd think hard about
doing something. At 10 volt sag, I'd definitely install larger
wiring. While you're laying the new cable, also lay a run of white
THHN wire of the same gauge into the trench.
That can be your neutral wire which will allow you both 120 and 240
volt outlets in the shop. You can't just connect both the ground and
neutral connections together in your sub-panel. That is both
dangerous and it'll instantly trip any GFI-equipped appliance.
John
John DeArmond
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.tnduction.com
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
See website for email address