On Thursday, May 10, 2018 at 9:16:50 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Thanks Robert, The nails only into the drywall, not the sheet metal
makes sense especially with Caulk. I have some liquid nails but the
consistency is a bit thinker. I am using that for the "wood" floor
molding in the doorway to the hall, on top of concrete slab.

Much appreciated.

Hope it helps! Like I said, never a failure yet (knocking on wood)and I have to make sure of my installs since I have to warrant them.

Not to be arbitrary, but if you are doing this again, I wouldn't use screws for the trim install, and wouldn't block between the studs. Both take too long. As for the screws, it is a great idea for a few feet of trim. But you need to have the "feel" for the tool to make sure you don't overdrive the screws. Some bite hard, and since those are made for wood use (note: coarse threads) they strip easily in metal. It is too hard while crawling on your hands and knees to get every screw "just right".

As for blocking between each and every stud... takes too long. You cut every block, then screw it into the metal studs with four screws. And as you have seen, every metal stud has a curl on the open side on each edge which actually makes it more of a purlin/purling than a stud. This folded edge will cause your stud blocks to go in unevenly, and generally be a pain in the ass. You spend more time blocking out than you do framing and trim installation.

So if you feel that you need some wood backing for some reason, try this: if you are using 1/2" sheet rock, run a 3 1/2" band of plywood around the bottom of the wall before you install the rock. Pop a line so it is straight, and you can use it as a ledger board to help hold he rock in place while you secure it. Put your cut to the bottom (you will be cutting 3 1/2" off the rock to accommodate the ledger) so factory is up making a clean joint. So now you have 3 1/2" of solid plywood to attach your base to, and if you put a 4" base on it, the joint will be covered up as well as the raw plywood. A time saving advantage is that you put the plywood strips up in 8' sections, so most rooms only need one, maybe two cuts per side. Goes up quick. Likewise, you can adjust your measurements if you are using 5/8" rock. Just use 5/8" plywood. One sheet will give you a couple of miles of backing when ripping 3 1/2" strips.

And one more thought while I am rattling on... Liquid Nails is a great "go to" adhesive for a lot of things. I use A LOT of it. But I have not always found it to be waterproof, regardless of the manufacturer's claims. If you are using the LN "heavy duty" on your floor trim you should be fine. If you are going to buy some adhesive, look around for PL400 all weather sub floor adhesive. It is made for extreme temp fluctuations and has good elasticity. Since it is actually a polyurethane based adhesive, it is almost impervious to water. And unlike LN, it is specifically designed for gluing dissimilar materials such as wood to concrete. It's usually about the same price, about $4 a tube.

Hope you come back and let us know how the caulk "X" nail plan turns out for you.

Robert