On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 16:27:29 -0500, shiggins1
wrote:
On 4/30/2018 3:53 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 10:43:30 -0500, shiggins1
wrote:
On 4/25/2018 12:08 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 12:25:20 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 10:03:37 -0500, shiggins1
wrote:
On 4/25/2018 8:24 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 13:06:04 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:
" writes:
The citrus based solvent has its uses. Does not evaporate
quickly so good on dried grease, old paint etc. But not great
for cleaning before gluing.
Dan
I use starting fluid (OUTDOORS..) for cleaning that leaves no
residue.
I don't know what the different brands may contain (I use straight
ether for starting), but avoid anything that contains acetone.
Pure acetone is great for adhesive prepping, but getting your
hands on
pure acetone is not easy. The stuff they sell in cans in hardware
stores is almost always recycled from industrial users, and it
usually
contains some oil. It has been the source of many bonding failures
by
home boat builders.
After reading your post Ed, I looked at the can of acetone that I
have.
It does not have an ingredients list, insinuating "pure" acetone.
There's no statement of purity either.
I've had some paint failures that I blamed on poor prep techniques.
Using acetone for prep often allows me to wipe the old coat of paint
away without scratching the part. I've gone back to using alcohol to
wipe the part down before painting. Oil in acetone could explain it.
I'm going to contact the manufacturer on the can for comment since I
bought it at the Borg. Stay tuned...
Steve
Here's an interesting claim from TAP plastics -- "Our Acetone is
virgin acetone and is not made from recycled acetone. It does not
contain any residual waxes or oils."
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...tap_acetone/11
Acetone sold in hardware stores is almost always "industrial grade,"
which is the stuff that contains small amounts of contaminants.
Apparently there are ways to recycle it to remove all of the
non-volatiles, but it's pretty well known in the boatbuilding
business
that hardware-store acetone is corrupted with non-volatiles,
especially lubricating oils, and that it can't be used to prep cured
polyester resins for laminating. When surfacing polyester cures (and
all of the resin sold in hardware stores is surfacing resin) a waxy
layer rises to the surface to seal it from the air, and that gets
into
acetone, too, when you wipe the layer down to laminate on top of it.
(There's no need for it with epoxy prep; just wash with warm water
and
detergent, like real TSP.)
It's too bad, because acetone is a great cleaning solvent, and safer
than a lot of others. It's just that the common grade can present
problems when you need a really clean surface.
--
Ed Huntress
I had good results with this on the front surface mirror in a copier.
http://www.crcindustries.com/product...-oz-05110.html
That's quite a hydrocarbon soup:
http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/5110.pdf
Hey, if it works, it works.
I sent an email to customer service at WM Barr, parent company of Jasco
brand Acetone. They said their's (labeled "Professional") is virgin. I
bought it at Lowes. After this discussion I'll watch the labels more
closely instead of just grabbing a can of Acetone.
Caveat Emptor
That's good to know. I'll keep it in mind.
I had a couple of gallons of it for nearly 30 years, that I got from
Ranger Yachts here in NJ. It's been around so long that I quit using
it and disposed of it at a hazmat collection site. Apparently it is
hygroscopic, so it will pick up water from the atmosphere unless it's
sealed extremely well.
Hmm... I wonder if water in my acetone isn't part of my poor prep
technique. I buy it by the gallon for the price break. But it might
take me a year to use it up. I used to be pretty good at putting the cap
back on after pouring some, but lately I've found open containers on the
workbench while cleaning up for the day.
I'm also pretty religious about cleaning firearms after a day at the
range. I usually use Ed's Red Bore Cleaner, which contains 25% acetone.
It had always done a good job, but when I pulled a rifle out of the
closet for the first time in a year it had a little surface rust. I was
able to wipe it off with more Ed's, but now I wonder if the formula put
the water there for rust to form.
I made a new batch of Ed's this year so I'll watch it closely.
Steve
Man, ya' got me. I used a lot of it in years past but only for a few,
limited purposes. For most cleaning, I didn't care about a little oil
or water. But for prepping surfaces for bonding with epoxy or
polyester, the purity of it, as I learned the hard way, can be
critical.
I have no further info to help you, Steve. That's everything I know
about it, and it's just experience-based from those limited uses. I
don't do chemistry.
--
Ed Huntress