On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:37:55 +0100, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:08:53 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:17:21 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 01:10:31 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:23:56 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 23:53:00 +0100, wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 20:03:41 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 05:07:21 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 23 Apr 2018 20:14:47 -0600, rbowman
wrote:
On 04/23/2018 08:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_c...ified_pins.svg
I see 25 of them. 25!!!
Most of which aren't in common use.
In residential use you only see Nema 5-15 and 5-20, with a 14-30
for the drier and 14-50 for the kitchen range.
The 5-15 and 5-20 are downward compatible
So you have 4 and we have 1. We win.
Hang on, you can connect a 15A device into a 20A receptacle, thereby having it fused incorrectly?
All of our 15a 120v equipment is listed to plug into 15 or 20 a
circuits. The only reason they have a separate 20a plug is for things
that draw more than 15a. They are actually pretty rare, virtually
everything has a 15a plug on it.
But you're plugging a 15A plug into a 20A socket, with 20A protection....
So what - the fuse is to protect the WIRING - NOT the device.
The device generally carries it's own protection if required.
But since there's no fuse in the plug, the only thing protecting the WIRE to the device is the 20A fuse at the fusebox. Since it's a 15A device, it doesn't have a 20A wire.
Unlike inbred scotsmen, most of us know enough to release the switch
if we overload a hand tool like a saw or grinder to prevent letting
the magic smoke out.
How quick are your reactions? The average person is a third to half a second. WAY too long to stop a motor being damaged by a jam.
Obviously you have little experience with hand-held power tools.
That magically changes your reaction speed and makes it better than every one else does it?
And anyway, if you work a tool just a little bit too hard, you don't know it until you see the smoke.
See above.
If you need X cutting in half, you do it with the tool you have available. A tool should be designed to refuse to cut it, not kill itself attempting to do so.
So? The equipment is designed to run on either ... less complication,
not more
And what about all the 2pin and 3pin options? I thought you could have either, or is that France?
Double Insulated devices use 2 pin polarized non grounded cords.
Other devices use 3 wire grounded cords.
It take it there's no shutters on your sockets then?
2 wire plugs fit 3 wire outlets.
2 wire outlets are basically history - only used in very specific
applications - usually on devices - - or things like "isolated"
shaver outlets in bathrooms - no longer allowed for regular
residential wiring.
Why all this "allowed" nonsense? It's your house, you do what you like.
This from the stupid ****** who's trying to tell us how to do things.
I do what's sensible, not what the law tells me to. Some people can think for themselves.
I've got a 2 pin shaver socket with an adapter to plug 3 pin devices into it. They work fine without the ground.
They work fine without the ground as long as there is no fault.
If there is a fault, then without the ground on an appliance expecting
one, you can be electrocuted. Why
don't you go try it? The correct adapter has a short ground wire
that is supposed to be connected via screw to the receptacle, though
few people do that. Even that may be of no value, you could have an
old box with no ground at the box.
Who gives a ****? You only need live and neutral to power a device. Earth is for girls.
--
Customer explaining flooded car to insurance claim investigator:
"It didn't look that deep at first glance - it only came half way up the ducks."