Puddin' Man wrote:

On Thu, 04 Dec 2003 11:57:25 -0500, Speedy Jim wrote:


I know you were originally thinking of tying the pump dischg into
the stack. Looking at your dwg, is there any chance that you could
simply dump the outlet pipe into the floor drain? They are typically 4"
and should handle the flow.


I finally got the plumbing inspector. He sez it's OK to
route discharge into the drain. This is the simplest
approach: the target for the discharge is no longer an
issue.


BTW, the diag looks reasonably accurate.


And the assumptions for the routing of the pipes below
the floor are "reasonable"? Thanks, this was my primary
concern at this time.


A check valve will probably be reqd too.


No problem.


You can saw the floor but if used dry it will make a hell of
a dust mess. For a small hole I would prefer to bust the floor
after drilling a few holes at the perimeter.


Yes, I expect the mess. I'll throw up some old shower
curtains or somesuch. I'd drill but I fear it'd take
much longer and perhaps burn the bearings in a drill
or 2 or 3. I may have to anyway if the 'diamond'
blades burn up quickly.


I like more stone around the pit.


3" all around? 6"??


And be sure to elevate the
pump above the bottom of the sump so that it doesn't suck in
mud/debris.


Maybe 3" of gravel in the bottom of the pit, and the
pump just above it? 6"??


On Fri, 05 Dec 2003 03:29:26 GMT, "The Masked Marvel"
wrote:

---snip ---


Zoeller Pump company has detailed installation inforation on their site:
http://www.zoeller.com/zcopump/zcopdfdocs/FM0447.pdf look at the typical
dewatering application.


This is "a find", and should be very helpful. Thanks!


Note too, you will need a dedicated 20A 120V GCFI
protected recepticle to power the pump.


I hope I can still get breakers for my 20 yr-old
Cutler-Hammer power box ...

Think carefully about using a GFCI receptacle. My preference for sump
pumps is to not use them since an unexpected (false) interruption is not
desirable. Same reason to not use one on a refrigerator or freezer.

Boden


For a dewatering application, vs an
effluent pump or sewage pump you can just use an opening in the cover, and
do not need to run a sealed vent line. The discharge piping can be PVC or
ABS Sch 40 (as code permits) or semiflexible PE, or copper or galv steel. A
sump pump check valve will also be required, a shutoff in the line is not
likely needed (unless it is a very high vertical lift)


It won't be.


if you can tolerate
some water flushing back when the line is disconnected from the pump for
service, replacement, etc.


I can live with it.


Outside, above grade, flat, floppy collapsing
PVC swimming pool drain hose may also be used to carry the water to a
suitable location on the lot.

All this assumes the problem is that the local water table rises under the
foundation, and not that the water collects along the outside of the
foundation wanns and comes through the walls as much/more than up through
the floor -- in that case improved drainage placed in a trench around the
foundation and redirected to a remote drywell might better solve the
problem, but it sounds as though it is indeed rise from below that is
troubling you.


Yes, I've done all I can with the exterior over the years. When
we had 12" of rain in 12 hours a few weeks ago, it appeared
that all I had was seepage from under the basement floor.

The pump is obviously not secured to the basin. The pump
unit is held in place by clamping the discharge pipe
above the basin to the wall or floor?

Much Thanks to "Speedy Jim" and
the "The Masked Marvel".

Cheers,
Puddin'