"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 2 Mar 2018 18:57:20 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"float"?

A somwhat higher voltage. Most charger setting recommendations only
specify voltage. Inexpensive Volt+Amp meters like this now make
current monitoring practical, so I use parameters from battery data
sheets that include current values for charger designers. They allow
higher voltage if the current and/or charging time is limited.

This is what I'm doing with home-made metered voltage regulators that
operate from solar panels.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...a_power_supply

The LM350 and a 33.00V / 3.000A meter are a good match. The meter
reads to my LM350's 4.5A limit, at least briefly.
(Short URL; there are other vendors)
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-voltage.../dp/B00N9ME6TM

...The acoustic tile box should be enough to conceal it from
thieves driving by. I can't hear it from the street if a car is
within 1/4 mile.

Including the car they are in.


Yabbut, the bad guys have impeccable hearing and sense of smell.
sigh

Other people' generators are louder.

That only means yours will be the last to be stolen. Criminals are
nothing if not persistent when they sense a gold mine. They work so
hard to avoid work, I swear.

There are enough unstealable generators on concrete pads to blanket
the area with omnidirectional engine noise. I think I can run mine for
an hour or two at meal times and use the batteries between and
overnight. That plan is based on bad weather more than theft risk. In
good weather my 300W of solar panels may be enough.

A KAW on the Alpicool C20 predicts it using 0.4 KWH per day, for $2.20
a month as a -18C .freezer.

It ran 2:00 hours on a Whistler 'Mighty' Lithium jumpstarter that I
can use for grocery shopping trips, on the deep cycle low battery
voltage cutoff setting. The car battery setting cuts off at a higher
voltage so the car will still be able to start.

I've never owned a chest-type freezer before and have to learn how
to
use it, like how much air space to leave, when/how to defrost and
not
letting things get stuck. I do have a Fluke thermocouple meter to
measure temperatures around the compartment.

That's good. I read that Danfoss catalog and was impressed at how
much info they crammed in there. Wow!

I think the compressor may be a copy, it has an Alpicool label and the
schematic is different. The blue metal-cased wattmeter recorded peak
startup currents around 4~5A.

So far I'm happy with it as long as it doesn't break. The car has a
12V outlet in the back and tie-down eyes.to keep cargo from sliding,
which the motor cover grills might not stand up to very well. The
cover was dinged when I received it. The C20 seems more suited to the
'burbs than the boonies.

-jsw