On 1/15/18 2:46 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2018 1:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, January 15, 2018 at 2:48:14 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/15/18 1:15 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, January 15, 2018 at 10:21:15 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal
wrote:
-MIKE- writes:
On 1/12/18 7:25 PM, wrote:

So Mike, your observation seems to have some merit as a
few folks thought the forstner bits weren't sharp. This
could be something, it could be nothing. Forstner bits
weren't meant to be used by hand, so it's hard to get a
good take on this one. On one hand I would doubt that the
home woodworker would know that drilling hard white oak
with this contraption by hand would be a bad idea, but on
the other Kreg doesn't provide any warning about drilling
really hard woods, small knots, or anything else. It also
doesn't warn against running your drill at high speed. I
think I will meet with him to check out the bit before he
uses it if he gets the jig at WoodCraft.


I suspected that the bit might not be the best, but surly
the thing can cut 12 holes. I just made a test cut in some
rock maple with the bit I got from Woodcraft. The holes
edges, cut by the pointed wings, were pristine. When it
got to the flat cutting edges for hogging, it slowed down a
lot and stalled. Of course, I may be going too fast. But
also, all the edges on this bit can be hand sharpened.

I have a couple of cabinet doors that need hinges, so I
ordered the Kreg jig, it arrived yesterday. I'll give it a
try this afternoon and report back. First impressions were
that it was definitely worth the price - the forstner bit
looks well made with nickers and full carbide cutters.

Awaiting the report!

If possible, please include your opinion on longevity. I
eventually will need to install 40-ish hinges in doors made
from 1 x poplar.

As Leon has mentioned, Kreg jigs typically look like a great
idea, but don't always live up to their (own) hype.


Do you have a drill press? It goes pretty fast with a press and
vac hose attached.


Yes, a bench-top DP, for which I made a 18" deep x 24" wide table
for.

I'm sure it will work with a couple of stops attached, but I'm
still interested in the jig - as apparently are you. ;-)



Just attach a fence to the DP and mark where the center of the hole
will be on the fence. Then align the mark on the door to the mark on
the fence and that is plenty good enough. No stops needed. I have
cut several hundred hinge holes this way.

Last full kitchen hinge replacement job I did, I used similar set-up,
but I didn't mark the doors at all. Instead of marking the fence where
the hinge goes, you mark the fence for the top/bottom of the doors.
They all get spaced the same, so that means you don't have to even mark
the doors.

Next time, I may put flip-stops on the fence to make it even more full
proof.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com