DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 7:38:29 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2018 5:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 5:55:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On 1/13/2018 4:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm trying to joint some 1 x 8 poplar on my router table so I can glue up
a panel. Each piece is 36" long. I have the out-feed fence 1/16" proud of
the in-feed fence.

I understand that you are supposed to keep pressure on the out-feed fence
but I can't seem to keep even pressure as I move the board along. At 36"
long I have to move my hands and when I do, I get a bump in the jointed
edge. I tried to clamp 2 feather boards to the table on the out-feed side,
but I'm still getting 2-3 bumps on the jointed edge because of hand
movement.

Neither fence nor the table is long enough to use push paddles for the
entire 36". Is that part of the problem?

Is there any way to get rid of the bumps so I can do a gap free glue-up?

I have not joined on a router, but frequently use the router to create
profiles on picture frames. I have found that I get the best results
using feather boards on the in fed and out feed ends of the router.
This then keeps the piece firmly against the fence on both sides to the
bit for the length of the piece. With the fence I only have to keep the
piece flat against the table, which I fine easier that trying to keep it
against the fence and the table. Without the feather board I find the I
tend to get waves in the route.

The router table is a Sears router table to which I attache a standard
router. The fence is only about 18". I use a one piece fence with an
opening for the bit. I have had good results using this technique with
frames as long as 40 inches.

I suspect that the same technique may work when joining.


Just FYI...It's jointing, not joining.

I think it is joining.

I'm pretty sure it's jointing

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jointer
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...?cat=1&p=41801

The tool is jointer. The




When jointing on a router table, you don't want pressure on the in-feed
fence.

Well, yes you do, until you have enough on the out feed side to apply
pressure to and not both at the same time.

Right. My problem is that with a 36" board, there is more time spent on
the out-feed side than the in-feed side. What is your definition of "enough"
on the out feed side? If I switch to putting pressure on the out-feed fence
after 12" or even 18" I still have to move my hands at least once or I'll
run out of fence or table from a "hand position" perspective. That's when
my bump occurs.

https://i.imgur.com/hjSOHrP.jpg



All pressure should be on the out-feed fence which is supposed
to be proud of the in-feed fence and flush with the cutting surface of
the bit. See he

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6nql7mlSOo


He acknowledges my comment above, pressure on the in feed to begin.

No argument there. I'll agree that I wasn't clear when I talked about
"no pressure on the in-feed fence". Obviously, you need pressure on the
in_feed fence at the start of the feed.