On Wed, 6 Dec 2017 03:23:03 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Tuesday, 5 December 2017 18:33:42 UTC, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 08:44:51 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

snip
It's a 2kW rad made up of a 700W and a 1300W setting. Now grow up.

No it is NOT I explained this before are yuo really that think.
There is NO 700W setting and NO 1300W setting.

Aww bless.

It has 3 heat settings. All of which depend on the voltage applied.

No, really? So why don't they print a graph on the side, showing the
power consumption over a range of voltages?

Why don't you ask the suppliers , maybe you should contact sales and ask them.

I don't need to mate because unlike you, I know the answer.


How about getting a grownup to show you the I, II and III
power positions and have them explain how they relate to the
approximate power levels of these rads when used on a working UK mains
supply.

What UK mains suply do you mean 240V or the 220V typically here or teh 210-215V in my office of the 202V in the lab if we installed all the heaters managment were sending us to install. ?

Yes, *the* UK mains supply,

Which we don't have.

Quite.

not your crap non-standard (for the UK
one). How many times do people have to tell you before you can accept
/ understand something?

How many time sdo you have to get it through your thick head that this is the real world NOT a simulation.

Because it isn't the real world it's just *your* real world.

This is the whole point of real world calculations have you still not understood.

See above.


So tell me the power of the heater needed for my office aimple isn't it.

Yoda, is that you? And why do you keep on with this 'simple isn't it'
when it either is (and you don't understand) or isn't (and you don't
understand)?

What is impossible for you to comprehend is basic bread_and_butter to
many with many here being able to come to a better and more accurate
conclusion on the back of a fag packet than you could with full use of
a Cray.


I donlt need a cray to work out that a 2KW heater rated to run at 240V will not be a 2KW heater if conntect to 230V or 220V or 202V or 110V

Well done. That's some progress for you then.

unlike you who seems to think that during this situation when yuo;re getting less power due to a volatge drop the solution is to select 1300W to get more heat.

Because you may actually get more heat ... for reasons you don't have
the brains to comprehend.

Most people that want their environment warmer tend to increase the setting not decrease them.

Of course they would ... and under ideal conditions that would be the
right thing to do.

Let me try to explain it to you in one word. 'Wheelspin'.



What would you suggest if someone said to you during the winter that the office can reach 5C what sort of heater would you supply if you were managment ?

'Can reach 5C'? You do have a strange way with terms. Do you mean 'it
can go as low as 5C' or 'It can be 5C' .

that it can be 5C in winter, in summer it can be 29C.

No, really?

(hence the fans we are given, these things you think are fan heaters.

Yes, of course I do. Hey, what do you call the resultant when you
place say ... a fan ... in front of say ... a heater?



Anyway, as it stands it was a stupid / pointless question.

Still can;t answer that can you.

No, you are right. Because it's impossible.

So how much does a 2KW heater use ?

42?

From
knowledge of the limitation of your scenario, an oil filled radiator
is about the only option.

Wow at last, give yourself a pad on the back, how long has this taken ?

For you, forever. ;-(

After the college banned fan heaters (NOT fans I kn ow you have a problem telling them apart),

See above.

then banned convection heaters there wasn;t much else left to use.

I know, you said.

snip bs

Now, you have the choice of a good / large
panel rad that can actually dissipate whatever input level you set it
to without cycling or,

Where s this magic device you speak of.

The one I have here in the lounge you mean ... or the one you have at
home or in your lab ... you know, any heater that can dissipate heat
without cycling.

I;ve never seen one in the real world.

You have never been in the real world mate.

can you poin tto one so I can get estates to buy one, or however many you think we'll need.

Any panel heater with a large enough surface area such that it can
stay on full and not cycle (on the overtemp stat).

maybe two cheaper heaters set at an input level
they can actually dissipate continuously.

and where do you get this sort of info from.

Science mate.

where is this stated on ANYB heater ?

I doubt it.


What you have there is a car that has too big an engine and you think
leaving it there spinning it's wheels is the most effective way to get
from A to B.

what I have is a car that cuts out whenever it gets to 200MPH it;s spec as being able to travel at 200MPH but when it gets there after a short time the speed drops to 70MPH.

Yup, same as what I said. A car that isn't able to maintain full power
for whatever reason.

snip waffle

Don't forget that convection and fan heaters have been banned.

Mate, I 'don't forget' any of it. I don't because I fully understand
the situation and have done from the exact instance you mentioned any
of it. I'm like that ... and how I can catch you out every time you
try to squirm out of stuff.

you've understood very little.

I've understood it all. It's energy 101 mate.

Can you answer this simple Q.

You would have no idea if a question was simple or not as you don't
understand the science.

When would you expect the overheat protection system to operate on a radiator ?

When it was above the temperature the designers consider to be
'overheated'.

when would you xpect any safety mechanism to take efect ?

When it was overheating.


p.s. We currently have the choice of *two* 450W mini oil filled rads,
or *one* 600W slimline panel.

The two mini rads have been on full since about 9 this morning and
it's only just reached 20 DegC in here now. The slimline panel would
have had it up to 20 DegC much quicker.

I wonder why that is the case ... ?

Maybe the two cheaper 450W heaters have a cut out desinged to cut out when the power disapation reaches 150W, or that they cut out because the surface area of the rad. is two small to disapate the required heat generated.

Brilliant! Take two gold stars!

That's what happens when you buy cheaper heaters they are less efficint than something thqat has been designed properly did you not know that.

I did ... now you do too. I hope that will save any more stupid
unanswerable questions from you now!


It's swhat I've been explaining to a research student when he asked for a 100W 10R resistor and I give him
https://www.rapidonline.com/arcol-hs...sistor-62-8188

and explained that this alone couldn;t dissapte 100W (and stay in spec) UNLESS as in the datasheet it is attached to a heatsink with sutable paste and the heatsink must be of a certain size too in order that the resisor behaves within it;s stated spec.
Which for this resistor is about 900 cm^2 alumiunum at a thinkness of 3mm .
If this isnlt followed then this resistor is derated to be only able to dissapate 30W. So IT IS NOT really a 100W resistor is it.!

Yes, when used as prescribed.

If a 2KW radiator cuts off and can only be used at 700W or 1300w or 1500W then it isn't a 2KW heater is it.

1) It is for a period of 2 hours you told us.

2) It is, as long as the surrounding temperature is cold enough to
ensure it doesn't overtemp. Send it to one of the polar research
stations and get them to test it. ;-)

Cheers, T i m