On Sun, 5 Nov 2017 08:09:56 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 19:00:46 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 3 Nov 2017 12:40:20 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
If it's only affected after a power outage, could the start cap on
the
motor be leaking down?
No, Larry, during an outage I have only the 30A or so max from the
genny to start the motor and that isn't enough to start it under
load.
The way you said it was...curious. "long outage"
This is what that curious-to-you phrase means:
http://www.nh1.com/news/new-hampshir...-in-nh-history
The storm hit on Sunday night and the crews are only now completing
the final restorations.
It's that Globular Swarming, uh, I meant Crimate Change, uh, I mean
Tipping Point again. Leftist scientists say it'll be happening every
5 years from now on.
I ran the fridge on the UPS overnight, then since we hadn't lost power
I checked the run time on the 6 year old batteries, which was still
adequate. The solar panels I have now aren't enough to keep up with
daily demand so I took advantage of Home Depot's sale on "100W" panels
for $99 with free home delivery.
Not a bad price.
They are Grape Solar polycrystallines which get good enough reviews
that lack technical details. I have the equipment to measure and
record their output and will give them a good checkout, and perhaps
buy an MPPT controller if it makes economic sense. Right now MPPTs
cost about as much as another 100W panel without adding as much output
A PWM controller was included with the $1119 kit I got. 1080w of poly
solar (6x 180w panels @ $170 ea.) I found a backup "MPPT" controller
for $26, ($99 now
http://tinyurl.com/yajajczf ) so I'll be testing the
two against each other to see if the pseudo-MPPT gives any better
output. These Taiwanese jobs were the next step up at $300.
http://tinyurl.com/ybvt6mme An Outback Flexmax 80 would be a nice one
to grow into (with datalogger) but they cost $509. They're good for
150v solar arrays, so I could triple-up panels in series/parallel for
less loss. Some day.
from a small system. My DPS5015 switching regulator can be used to
find and charge at the maximum power point but it won't track changes
automatically.
Interesting, but sort of a moot point without automation. Or is it?
Finding the MPP of the system might be good for a boost, even without
the tracking, but I haven't seen any studies on that. I'll look for
some more articles on MPP to see.
When the power is on this house can pull 200A from the grid all day,
the neighborhood was originally wired for electric heat.
Mine was wired that way, too, and I absolutely hated the baseboard
crap. The first thing I did was spend $9,000 to toss the 240v
radiant
heat, put in a 96% efficient gas heater with A/C, pull out the
single
glazed aluminum windows and put in dual-glazed PVC windows, and get
all-new, -efficient- kitchen and washroom appliances. That gave me
2
new dual circuits for 3 new 240v outlets in the shop (seldom used
concurrently), one dual circuit for the new A/C condenser, a circuit
for the furnace, and 3 spare slots.
I left the electric heat intact as an automatic backup for the wood
heat, with new thermostats that can be set below 50F. Heat in the
bathroom is very nice when I've let the house cool below 55F.
Grok that. I disabled my shiny chrome heater, but put a $20 milkhouse
heater in there to warm things up before showers. Heavenly.
The washing machine also won't start on 30A unless I push the
spring-tensioned motor inward to let the belt slip.
Cheater! Get a new washer. I hear they're only 1/4hp now, and
won't
blow a 15a breaker.
My old Dependable Care Maytags are easily modified to wash with water
heated on the wood stove and poured in. I bypassed the water level
control which allows these top loaders to wash with as little water as
a front loader. Water isn't short here but heating it is expensive.
Yeah, the older Kenmore and Maytags were bulletproof. My Magic Chef
(? yeah, me, too) is a cheaped-out Maytag with plastic bucket. They
had to replace the washer motor within 6 weeks. And the dryer thumped
for the first 5 minutes due to soft rollers. I had them replace 'em
although the tech said it wouldn't matter. Once he showed me the soft
rubber rollers he removed, I understood. The type of rubber makes for
thumps for the first few minutes, but a quieter dryer for the next 45.
I switched to a warm wash/cold rinse, which showed on my electric bill
years ago to be the best way. With solar hot water and LED lighting,
I may have $20/mo electric bills. The furnace has a variable speed DC
fan motor for more savings. Carrier Infinity = no wood smoke = Love
it.
The one I'm using now simply has an added Wash/Spin switch that
reverses the start winding. All I had to do to change the wiring was
rearrange the Fastons.
One of my water heater elements will be solar soon, so that should
effectively drop my electric bill by half. We'll see what 900w will
do in a 20gal tank. I'll run solar all day. The other element is
3800w and I installed a timer (limited to 3hr/day) to bump it to 120F
in the evening when necessary. Now to find sensors to collect data on
it...
--
One of the reasons (progressive) college students get so upset
about everything is the poor quelity of teaching they receive.
Well-educated people are generally unshockable. They have no
intellectual hinterland and no curiosity about the world around
them or about anything that has preceded their own lives.
Centuries of history, culture, and wisdom are dismissed as
products of "dead white men."
--MILO. Dangerous