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Larry Jaques[_4_] Larry Jaques[_4_] is offline
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Default Impossible snap ring, how to remove?

On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 02:29:01 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 29 Sep 2017 21:42:44 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:
The Urban Dictionary link surprised me a little; didn't see
any reference to wrenches.....times change.


'Twas a joke, Bob, and it came up in my google search.


Oops, apologies for being so thick...At one time a thing called
"The Urban Dictionary" was a useful guide to language too modern
to be found in traditional dictionaries.


I find it a hilarious jumble. Good guide to Leftist new-speak for us
Cisgendered, white male gazing, haters out here.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=cis
https://everydayfeminism.com/2016/03...male-gaze-woc/
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=hater #3, please.


In any case, it looks as if I'm stuck on a problem more basic.

For reasons unclear, the two major fasteners on the jack
are tight beyond my ability to move them (and any obvious reason).
They're items 4 and 34 on the first figure in
http://www.zefox.net/~bp/model_k_breakdown.pdf

I managed to bolt the unit body (item 12) to the hitch mount
on my Scout and put a pipe wench on item 4 with a 4 foot cheater
and all my 140 pounds, plus a hammer. It didn't yield.


I owned and enjoyed flying a 1972 Int'l Scout 2WD (304, 3sp manual)
for a couple years. I had to sell it in '88 when I hurt my back since
I couldn't turn the heavy (manual, not power) steering wheel any more.


Item 34 is more delicate, so I made a spanner out of black iron pipe,
but that bent before the packing box turned. As others have noted, pipe
is soft, so maybe something from a grade 8 nut has a better chance.


Yes, likely so.


I'm planning to visit Valley Hydraulics in Woodland unless the
Jack-X-Change supplies some useful tech support to go with the seal kit.


3 quick thoughts.

First, have you done any percussion loosening of the tube yet, with or
without a Kroil or PB Blaster soak first? if not, take a sledge and
put it up against the side of the tube at the item 4/5 junction. Now
take another hammer and whack the pipe opposite the sledge. Give it a
few, turn it 15 degrees and do it again. Repeat for 180 degrees.
Re-Kroil and try again. If it's still a NOGO, whack it again and let
it sit overnight. If still NOGO the next day try heat.

Second, heat the tube near the 4/5 junction but on the tube. In olden
days, we'd take the nasty, atmosphere-eating R12 and freeze the inner
part while heating the outer part, then try unscrewing them.

Third, although it's unlikely, have you tried tightening first? On
rare occasions, a nut will tighten even though it won't loosen, but
after it nudges a bit tighter, will loosen more easily. This also
allows for the rare left-handed assembly, which may unscrew easily
once you figure out what direction the threads are going. I've never
seen a LHT on hydraulics, but I don't work on them every day, either.

Let us know what works. I've never repaired a jack because grumble
the repair kit (2 o-rings, a spring, and a ball, IIRC) always cost at
least $2 more than an entire brand new freakin' jack. /grumble

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo