On 23/09/2017 6:39 PM, Chaya Eve wrote:
On Sat, 23 Sep 2017 12:21:31 +1000, Xeno wrote:
. Starter bolts 30ft#
. Bellhousing bolts 54ft#
. Flywheel (either 19 ft lbs+1/4 turn for 3RZ or 65ftlbs for the 2RZ and 5VZ engines)
Pressure plate bolt torques? As critical as flywheel bolt.
Thanks. I appreciate your advice because most of the DIYs I read were just
words, where the words meant something only to someone who has already done
it.
I once did the RTFM bit. Problem was, the manual I had, an aftermarket
one and not a factory shop manual, had the torques for the flywheel
bolts mixed up with the pressure plate bolt torques. 28 ft/lb on half
inch flywheel bolts and 65 ft/lbs on 5/16th" pressure plate bolts just
did not sound logical. So I reversed them. That's trade experience.
Never assume. Bolts have torques that are relative to their size, the
thread form, the material of which they are made, the material they are
clamping, and the presence of gaskets. After decades in the trade,
something that defies logic literally jumps out at you - even misprints
in books.
For example, I didn't even know the pressure plate had bolts.
The DIYs I found just said "remove pressure plate" so I assumed there were
no bolts.
In this, as with everything mechanical, make no assumptions. RTFM.
Preferably a factory manual. Must make a note here. Most factory
workshop manuals make one major assumption - that the people using them
are tradesmen and are familiar with all the basics. Ergo, they skip a
lot of the basic stuff. The aftermarket ones are designed for the novice
and, as such, they give step by step procedures. My issue with them is
they lack the depth *I* require.
I added an empty spot for the pressure plate bolt torque, which I will fill
in when found!
Learn to differentiate between pedal free play and release bearing free
play - you should be able to feel two (2) distinct steps - pedal play,
then release play.
I admit, the whole "clutch pedal adjustment" procedure is a fog to me at
the moment. I can only distinguish, when pressing a clutch pedal, the
distance that nothing happens, versus the distance that something happens.
There are three *distances*. There is the distance where absolutely
nothing happens but the take up of the free play between the clutch
pedal and the MC piston. You are working against the pedal return spring
here.
The next take up distance, with very slightly more force required, is
the free play between the release bearing and the pressure plate
fingers. The actual force you are acting against, apart from a miniscule
amount of hydraulic resistance, is the force of the clutch release fork
return spring.
From that point right down to the end of pedal travel, you are acting
against the diaphragm spring in the actual pressure plate.
A little extra here. The diaphragm spring works differently to, say, a
coil spring. A coil spring continually increases its resistance as the
spring is compressed. A diaphragm spring, on the other hand, has the
highest resistance at the start and at the midway point of its
compression, becomes easier to compress. Less force required to go from
the halfway point to the bottom of travel. The bonus of this *feature*
is that the clutch is much easier to hold when the pedal is to the
floor. Women love this feature.
Some systems work on zero free play at the release
bearing (e.g. carbon thrust block types) but, in the case of hydraulic
systems, there is *always* a need for free play at the master cylinder
end. This is to ensure correct operation of the MC hydraulics.
I need to study that further to understand it better.
All you need to know on that score is that the piston in the master
cylinder needs to come right back to its stop, which is usually a
circlip. A small amount of free play between the piston and the pedal
push rod *ensures* that the piston can fully return.
No mention of what you should be inspecting for, both on bits you intend
to replace and those you intend to refit. Flywheel face, for instance.
That is a good point that I don't know what to look for.
Indeed, a very good point.
In the case of the DIYs, everyone shows a picture of a chewed-up clutch,
but I'm expecting to replace the clutch, so that won't matter much.
Also most expect to resurface the flywheel.
It might not need replacement or resurfacing. If it is flat, not gouged,
no signs of heat marks, no fine cracking, you should be Ok to use it.
Heat marks, for an example, are a judgemental thing.
And most expect to replace the two "bearings", the throwout & pilot.
Always. They are a pita to replace by themselves if they fail later.
Replace the lot while you have it apart.
And they expect to replace the "rear engine seal".
Some you can, some you cannot *easily* replace in situ.
I'm not sure of what else that people routinely inspect to replace.
In my case, I'm not expecting any "damage" since the transmission is
essentially working fine (the clutch is merely "due" for a change based on
time and miles).
No mention of cleaning and safety precautions associated with same.
I'm not sure what 'cleaning' is needed other than wiping off old grease.
In the good old days, clutch plates were made of that wonderful
substance known popularly as *asbestos*. Now, in these more enlightened
times people have become aware of the dangers of asbestos. That does not
mean that your car may not have asbestos in the clutch plate. Older
vehicles may still have some asbestos. Never assume they don't. What's
more, a lot of people buy cheap Chinese made clutch replacement kits.
Some of the kits are manufactured by some less than scrupulous companies
and *still* contain asbestos. If your vehicle has has a clutch
replacement in the past, it may contain asbestos. Never assume it doesn't.
That means you *Do Not Use An Air Pistol* to blow out the clutch dust.
Think of cleaning brake shoes, pads, etc and use the same techniques -
always wet to keep any dust suppressed. Have a look at a few video clips
on cleaning brakes to get an idea of the path you should follow.
This stuff;
https://www.crcindustries.com.au/pro...-parts-cleaner
Is good for cleaning out the clutch housing, the back of the engine,
flywheel area, etc. Note, it leaves no residue.
When you get your new bits, and I advise getting a complete clutch kit
which includes pressure plate, you need to know what to clean, and just
as importantly, what *not to clean*. In the case of the *new* pressure
plate, it will be pre-lubed and will have a coating of preservative to
prevent rust. Do not under any circumstances dunk the whole unit in
cleaning fluid. Only clean off the clutch face with a suitable cleaning
solvent. A suitable cleaning solvent is any solvent that does not leave
an oily residue. Or any residue for that matter. This should be clearly
stated in the instructions that come with the clutch kit. If you use the
brakleen mentioned above, do not spray the pressure plate. Spray onto a
rag and use that to clean just the clutch face area of the pressure
plate. Again, follow any instructions that come with the clutch kit.
. It is said to put it in gear when aligning splines (allows output & input shaft to turn)
Top gear always.
The thing I didn't get is how I'm supposed to put it in gear when it's
already removed from the vehicle?
Use the lever(s), either on the side of the trans or the main change
lever. If you have removed the main gear change lever, and it's likely
you will need to, you can usually poke down in the hole and manually
select a gear using a large screwdriver of the like. Or temporarily
reinsert the lever.
Is it easy to put a transmission in top gear when it's just sitting there
on the garage floor without a shifter mechanism?
I have never had much of an issue doing that.
--
Xeno