On Sat, 23 Sep 2017 12:21:31 +1000, Xeno wrote:

. Starter bolts 30ft#
. Bellhousing bolts 54ft#
. Flywheel (either 19 ft lbs+1/4 turn for 3RZ or 65ftlbs for the 2RZ and 5VZ engines)

Pressure plate bolt torques? As critical as flywheel bolt.

Thanks. I appreciate your advice because most of the DIYs I read were just
words, where the words meant something only to someone who has already done
it.

For example, I didn't even know the pressure plate had bolts.
The DIYs I found just said "remove pressure plate" so I assumed there were
no bolts.

I added an empty spot for the pressure plate bolt torque, which I will fill
in when found!

Learn to differentiate between pedal free play and release bearing free
play - you should be able to feel two (2) distinct steps - pedal play,
then release play.

I admit, the whole "clutch pedal adjustment" procedure is a fog to me at
the moment. I can only distinguish, when pressing a clutch pedal, the
distance that nothing happens, versus the distance that something happens.

Some systems work on zero free play at the release
bearing (e.g. carbon thrust block types) but, in the case of hydraulic
systems, there is *always* a need for free play at the master cylinder
end. This is to ensure correct operation of the MC hydraulics.

I need to study that further to understand it better.

No mention of what you should be inspecting for, both on bits you intend
to replace and those you intend to refit. Flywheel face, for instance.

That is a good point that I don't know what to look for.
In the case of the DIYs, everyone shows a picture of a chewed-up clutch,
but I'm expecting to replace the clutch, so that won't matter much.

Also most expect to resurface the flywheel.
And most expect to replace the two "bearings", the throwout & pilot.
And they expect to replace the "rear engine seal".

I'm not sure of what else that people routinely inspect to replace.
In my case, I'm not expecting any "damage" since the transmission is
essentially working fine (the clutch is merely "due" for a change based on
time and miles).

No mention of cleaning and safety precautions associated with same.

I'm not sure what 'cleaning' is needed other than wiping off old grease.

. It is said to put it in gear when aligning splines (allows output & input shaft to turn)
Top gear always.

The thing I didn't get is how I'm supposed to put it in gear when it's
already removed from the vehicle?

Is it easy to put a transmission in top gear when it's just sitting there
on the garage floor without a shifter mechanism?