DIYbanter - View Single Post

=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?=

posted for all of us...

On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 15:44:01 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
Yep, I somewhat agree. However, that's why I came up with The List and
purposely didn't even address your "proper installation". Because, now you're
talking about specialty products and much more difficult practices being
NEEDED to rather poorly try to match Vertical's performance on every level.
And still, you're left with Butt Humps instead of flat walls. I even see
"pros" using Butt-Boards to seam between studs (floating hack-work). Absurdly
ridiculous!

I realize I may not bring you over from the dark side. But, why fix and patch
shoddy work with more steps and specialty products when you can just do it
simple, right and quick the first time with basic off-the-shelf products that
are available everywhere?

You saying you can't buy DuraBond at your local home improvement
store? And you are saying "drywall compound" isn't a "specialty
product"?
And you are saying my joints and installation are not as good or as
solid as yours? I have NEVER has a drywall seam crack - and I don't
have issues trying to get the drywall screws into the 2X4 withoit
tearing out the edge of the drywall. I can keep EVERY screw a minimum
of 2 inches from the edge except the ones at the end of the panel if
my poanel is shorter than my wall. I can buy my drywall the size I
need - 8,9, 10, or 12 feet long - so in MOST rooms, on MOST walls
there is no vertical joint at all that needs to be butted on a 2X4.
Sure makes joints a whole lot simpler when there is just one straight
line around the room, and a few corners.

Again, a 90% un-backed seam will never compare to
100% backed seam. Even in fire tests, you'll immediately notice the tape and
mud goes almost immediately and is non-existent anywhere at the end of the
fire test. I think you should give Vertical a try next time around.

I did it vertically for years ubtill a real master showed me how it
SHOULD be done, and how much simpler it is Do the ceiling first, with
the long edge at right angles to the natural light or in line with the
line of sight. Then install the top sheet on the walls, lenthwise - so
you get the tapered edge of tje eall panel meeting the tapered edge of
the ceiling panel along the line of site. When mudded, the joint is
straight and considtent, and virtually invisible. Then cut the bottom
panel to the correct size to fit between the floor and the top panel,
leaving about half an inch space at the floor. Jack the panel into
place and screw it down. You now have 2 tapered edges together to mud
and tape. Absolutely no simpler way to make an excellent drywall job.
Using setting compound, the joint is structurally sound and dry in
less than an hour - and the thin skim of "drywall mud" required to
finish the joint dries quickly - unlike a thick bed of muh that
requires 18 hours or more to fully harden, particularly 0n a humid
day. You can rock, mud, and sand a room in an 8 hour day this way -
and even prime it before you go home for supper. It can be painted
before midnight - and it WILL NOT CTACK.
Old Johann finished the mud joint with a sponge, and it required
almost no sanding at all. When I do it, I still need to sand a bit
more, but not nearly as much as when doing it "the old way".

No issues with where the vertical joints meet the ceiling/wall
interface either - dead straight joints, all around the room.

Clare, I agree with your posts 100% I don't think fire protection is rated
on horizontol or vertical installation or mudding.

I also think Iggy is your NYM shifting troll buddy.

--
Tekkie