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Steve[_79_] Steve[_79_] is offline
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Default Engineered vs solid hardwood flooring

Just as a counter-possibility, MY own boss and I put a hardwood Parquet into our condo. Bottom floor (bottom above grade, that is) factory finished, 500 Sq. Ft. Solid oak, but just 1/4" thick.

I liked the factory finish, but I wanted to seal the floor a little better AND I wanted to fill all those voids between the little parquet pieces. With a reasonable amount of care and caution, I was able to scruff up that factory finish (320-grit) and drop another 4 coats of HARCO High gloss poly on top.

We moved out, kept the condo and rented to new tenants 11 years later (by this time, the damned Low VOC coats had run through the stores.) Regardless, I was able to, once again, refinish the floors, this time with a Satin.

I'm a hardwood guy, myself, BUT if refinishing later is the only fear keeping you from going engineered, then I wouldn't think twice about finding a compatible poly or varnish-- it might take a little bit of trial and error. Buy more flooring now, put three or six 2x2' squares of the stuff in your mud room or shop-- someplace with traffic & durability issues. Beat them up over the winter, and then wash & sand lightly to test a few different QUALITY products for compatibility over the next winter. Quality products-- like, NOT Minwax. (HARCO, ZAR, General, are my go-to polys; Unfortunately, Ben Moore's Oil Poly is now nearly impossible to find. Point is, look for the good stuff.)

Once you find your match(es) then you will be confident that you don't have to sand ALL THE WAY DOWN to the lumber to be assured of your new coat sticking.

Definitely also make sure you try a couple of high gloss coats on your test samples-- even if that's not the look you want, the high glosses are "pure poly" where the semis & satins include other chemicals that act as deadeners and therefore can have a harder time gripping onto anything "other." If you wind up refinishing, it's nothing to coat the first time in gloss for the bite, and the second & third coats in the same company's satin for compatibility.

I think this final point goes without saying, but just in case: AVOID the Water based polys at ALL COSTS if you're going over an already factory finished floor. Their coats aren't water based. Compatibility will be difficult at BEST, and durability is trash. (6 coats water to three oil, generally speaking.) I hate Water based polys, period... but I won't talk anyone out of them. Just understand that they're neither as HARD nor as DURABLE (Two very different things) as an Oil, and that for a floor, those are the two most important qualities in a coat.

Hope that helps someone, someday.

S