On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 06:31:22 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 01:10:11 -0500, advised:

You can use a sledge hammer or an axe if you like to put them on, and
you can beat them off with a chisel, but the proper tool as always it
much easier . And you asked "what tool do you use to remove the
weights. I, and most mechanics, use a weight pliers - so I answered
your question - didn't I???

You are correct and I apologize for changing the rules mid thread.
Yes, I did ask. And I now know what tool they use.

I do like to use good tools, like everyone, and I am not the type normally
to use a hammer for everything, so I will "probably" get the wheel weight
pliers.

I say probably because I may just use the stick-on weights for everything.
I don't know yet. It's also just as likely that I'll use the P-type
crimp-on weights for these steel wheels.

I'm looking at this catalog, for example, and what I "probably" should get
is the following on page 185:
A. Wheel weight pliers and hammer
B. Wheel weight scraper
C. Rim Gauge

http://www.tuffymfg.com/docs/Pg177-1...ngSupplies.pdf
If you are only going to static balance anyway, stock only the
stik-on weights and apply them to the CENTER of the rim. That way you
are not splitting weights and quite possibly making the dynamic
balance worse. It is also the onlr economical way of having the weight
you require for all situations. When "roughing" the balance plsce the
weighy at the point you will be installing it (an inch or two in from
the bead, on most of those rims) - it will take a wee bit more weight
in there, but you won't throw them nearly as easily, being held in
place by rotational force as well as the tape.