On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 05:03:04 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 23:38:46 -0500, advised:

The machine as supplied is CRAP - but it doesn't take MUCH to make it
half-assed decent. Get a steel plate welden in place of the
fence-post.

Clare,

You are making sense. I agree with you. I only shoved the fence post in
there as an American ingenuity hack, but the real solution would be to weld
in some steel reinforcement, I agree.

Actually the REAL solution would be to make a tubular one out of 2
inch square tube - but welding in a plate will do the job

To that end, I have a friend who will sell me his old oxy acetylene setup,
so, I will pick that up soon (the tanks are empty so I will need to fill
them up). I'll learn how to weld, which should be a useful skill anyway.

Welding plate like that with an axy-acetylene welder CAN be done, but
it's not a job for beginners. If my only tool was the gas welder, I'd
braze that part - not weld.

Put proper bolts (a bit bigger because the fit is sloppy) into
properly re-drilled holes, and install washers where necessary to take
out the slop in the linkages..

This is a great idea Clare, and I appreciate it. There was far too much
slop in those linkages, and, I didn't mention it, but the clovis pin bent
like it was made out of putty when I pulled it out.

By the way - it's a CLEVIS pin.

So, you're totally correct that there is far too much slop, which allows
the pressure to not be straight down, which not only lessens the force on
the bead, but puts force on the tool to the side where it bends the metal.

The extra slop puts the bolt into bemding stress instead of just shear
-

The HF tool *is* crap - but it can be reinforced.

Cut the big handle in half and drive in
a rod or sched 40 pipe , then weld the thing back together - now it's
strong enough to do the job without turning into a pretzel.

Clare, this is *another* good idea. I need the big red handle but only
because of the special shape of the *ends*. The middle is not needed (so to
speak) and it's so weak that it bends easily.

So, your idea of cutting it in half and then welding it into a long strong
pipe makes a lot of sense. I am picking up an oxyacetylene welding setup
soon, so, I will keep you informed.

Again, I'd stick weld that job - or if all I had was the torch, I'd
braze it - and drill a few small holes and plug braze it too.

Then you'll find the next weak point (hint - the guy who welded the
base legs was onto something)

So far, the legs have been fine, but I didn't mention that there is a crack
in the metal where it is bolted to the concrete, so, again, you are right.

I agree with you that this HF tool is crappy, but, for the price of the
tool plus a bit of welding, it can be made more robust.

When you are done you'll have a useable tire machine that might last
you a while. - still not a GREAT machine - but better than what you
have.

Clare - I totally agree with you.
The HF tool is crappy but it can be shored up where it is weak.
Then it will work for most car tires.
Which is good enough since it is only going to be used once a year anyway.

If you don't, your comebacks and (sometimes very) dumb questions make
you look liike an idiot.

I am never afraid to ask a question.
If I wanted to, I could write up a tutoral that *looks* like I knew
everything ahead of time - but I write things as they happen.

I'm not afraid of looking dumb because I am intelligent (very) so I don't
worry like most people do about looking dumb.

I often ask simple questions.
I even ask for directions.

Don't go out of your way to make enemies of the
guys who can help you understand what you don't know....

This is a fair enough piece of advice.
Thanks for your help and advice for how to shore up the crappy harbor
freight manual tire changer.