On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 22:00:36 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 16:12:12 -0500, advised:

Find a GOOD shop - they do exist.
My brother's old shop tire machine doesn't even need the centers
removed from your BBS wheels, and the mounting tools never touch the
rim.

How on earth are you going to get to the lug bolts *without* removing the
BBS hubcaps? It's impossible. I don't know what planet you live on, but the
math is strange on your planet.

Not ALL BBS wheels have the full caps . I was thinking the center
caps used on many BBS wheels that have their nuts exposed

Any hack that doesn't remove the weights BEFORE removing the tire
should be shot.

Well then, a *lot* of mechanics who use the dynamic balancing "spinners"
need to be shot then.

Every mechanic that ever worked for me removed all the weights before
removing tires, and ballanced from scratch. We ballanced to 1/4 ounce
The "high spot" marks oftem make virtually no difference
I agree with you on this.

Especially since it really only applies match mounting onto brand new
wheels at the factory.

If you just take in the rims to have tires mounted, what pressure are
they supposed to use?

When I have my four new tires mounted and balanced, I do what everyone else
does, which is *drive* the car to the shop who mounts and balances them.

By far not everyone does that. A LOT of people have summer and winter
rims, and when one set gets worn to the point they need replacement,
they drop those rims off at the shop to have new tires installed when
they are removed to install the other seasonals.

They know it's a BMW. They know that the rears are different pressures from
the front. But they just put in whatever their compressor is set to for all
cars.

So they inflate them to 100-140PSI, do they???? That's what their
compressor puts out.

I don't blame them. They're lazy. It costs money to take time to look up
the pressure per axle and to adjust the pressure.

Like I said, if that's the service you are getting that's the service
you are paying for. Go to a better level of shop.

At easily $100 to $150 an hour, they don't bother with that.


The mechanics make a hell of a lot less than that, and if you are
paying that much and not getting proper service, raise hell and vote
with your feet.
Or if you use a slightly different sized tire?

I don't use non-stock sizes but the fact remains that the tire shop puts
the same pressure into everything.

What part of that don't you understand?

I don't understand where you are getting your work done and why you
don't set them straight. You know how to bitch, so do it where it has
a chance of doing some good.

YOU are responsible for testing the pressure and setting to your
requirements.

Yup. We agree. If you want the job done right, you have to do it yourself.

Anyone who doesn't torque the bolts properly should be shot. They are
"hacks" not "technicians"

They don't even *know* the torque for your car!
How are they gonna know it?

BULL****. They have a chart with the torque specs.
Basically all steel rims with a given stud size use the same torque,
and all alloys of that size another torque - and the torque goes up
with the stud size.
They have to flip through the Mitchells or the Internet, but they don't
bother.

That's my point.

Then bitch at them and vote with your feet - but I'm almost 100%
positive you will screw up more than they do.

It's not hard to figure out that it's 84 foot pounds per lug bolt; but it
takes time and they just torque everyone to 90 or 100 foot pounds.

Bull****

You likely bent the rims hitting a curb or pothole - which requires
more than just camber and toe to be checked on the alignment.

That's a totally different story, but even then, with 5 very soft BBS stock
rims on the bimmer, I can put the *best* rims on the front and the worst
rim in the trunk, which takes time that the shops just aren't gonna do at
$100 to $150 an hour shop rate.

Again, bull****. You say $100 to $150 an hour - if they are on the
clock, they get paid, so why not take the time???
If it's flat rate, it's a different story - but they are not charing
by the "hour" but by the "labour unit" - which may or may not relate
closely to an hour.
Your problem is you are going to a cheapeassed schlock tire shop
because you are too cheap to go to the dealership. (You call it the
stealership)

The stealer is upwards of $200/hour and to get your tires mounted and
balanced at the stealer is just crazy for a 15 year old bimmer or a 20 year
old Toyota.

Then find a good independent GARAGE to do your work, not a tire
"stealership" Find a garage to do the required repairs on your
vehicle that you can trust - then trust them to do the job. That
doesn't mean don't check up on them - it just means trust them to do
the job, and let them know you are happy with them when they do, and
that you are not when they don't

I go to the Tire Rack Recommended Installers, which you can google and find
yourself for your area. They're all about $18 to $40 per tire for a
mounting and balancing in my area. I just ran a survey and posted it.

And you are getting ****ty work for that price.

"If you want first quality oats you have to be willing to pay first
quality prices. If you are willing to settle for oats that have been
through the horse, they do come a little cheaper"

I don't understand how you can totally miss the point.
Your sermon is tired and old and just does not fit the facts.

What you say is a trite old wives tale which is meaningless except to old
wives.

You can do it yourself and get quality results (static only though).
Or, you can pay someone and get quality results.

How much you pay has absolutely no bearing on the quality.
For example, I just called the first five of the Tire Rack recommended
installers, and one charges $7 plus 70 cents tax for just *disposal* alone
for each tire.


I didn't say how much you pay necessarily has a bearing on the
quality - only that if you just shop by price, don't be surprized if
the oats have already been therough the horse.\

And it's NOT "old wive's tales" -
I was a service manager at a dealership for 10 years - my retention
rate was never under 90%, and exceded 100% for over 5 years. Loosely,
that means if the dealership sold 300 cars over the last 3 years, more
than 300 customers brought their cars to me for service at least twice
a year. It's a bit more complex than that - but it's based on how many
vehicles were still coming back for service 3 years after they were
sold - and that was back when the warranty was only one year.

That also means customers who didn't like the service they were
getting at another dealer voted with their feet and came to me
instead.
And that was just our toyota customers. We also serviced a fair
number of non-toyotas because we had an excellent reputation for
service.
There has got to be another dealership (or garage) who can provide
that kind of service.

I also had lots of customers like you. Bitch, Bitch Bitch BITCH.
Didn't matter what you did for them, they were never satisfied - and I
could see right away when they came in what kind of trouble they were
going to be in most cases. They came in counting on being screwed -
they expected it, and no matter what you did, they considered
themselves to have been screwed.
I had to tell a few of them if they didn't trust me to look after
their vehicles, they were not only welcome, but encouraged, to take
their bitchiung somewhere else.
None charged less than $3.50 plus 35 cents tax for disposal (not Pep Boys,
Autozone, or OReilly's either).

Yet, I called Costco, and they're $1 plus ten cents tax.

Do I get a better quality disposal for my seven dollars and seventy cents?
No.

Quality and price have absolutely nothing to do with each other. Period.

People only use price as an indicator of quality because they're too stupid
to use a more realistic measure (like, um, the quality of the work for
example).

If you have to ask "how much" for ANYTHING you have no business
driving a Bimmer (or a Porsche, or an Audi or a Jag or a Range Rover
or a - you get the picture???

You have so many old wive's tales muddling your thought process that you
probably never once thought about what you're saying, to see if it actually
makes any sense (using math that works on this planet).

You're just saying stupid clich?s which mean absolutely nothing and really
are no help to anyone at all. If you want to believe in stupid clich?s,
that's fine, but let's not waste everyone's time discussing stupid clich?s
that are worthless and meaningless to everyone but you.

I appreciate the advice and help. I really do.
But clich?s are not advice nor help.
They're just wastes of our time.

And those stupid clich?s that you spout are never true anyway.

They're only true for idiots who don't know how to do math or who don't
know what quality is (because that's too complicated for them than a stupid
clich?, which is easy for them to understand).