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[email protected] jurb6006@gmail.com is offline
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Default Advice requested from those of you who have successfully checkedcamber at home

"New to USENET?
I've done wheel alignment in my garage but given your arrogant attitude
I prefer not potentially clutter things here.

FYI, you won't be the first to call me an asshole today so don't be so
proud when you do so. "

I doubt the OP actually even knows what camber is. He is probably conflating it with caster which is the amount the lower parts of the tires are closer together. That angle along with the camber which could also be called steering inclination axis is what makes the steering wheel return to the center.

Unfortunately most of what I know (and I know my limitations) applies to rear wheel drive cars which usually had a toe in, but now with front wheel drive there is usually a toe out.

I don't know if I can say this for true on these newer cars, some of which have quite complicated suspension, but in the old days if you knew how to align a car you could do it with a piece of string. Things have changed and now withe front wheel drive and independent rear wheel suspension having it's own caster and camber, toe in or whatever, has complicated the situation a bit.

But still if you got the money for tires all you have to do is drive the car a while and see the wear on the tires.

Guy was telling me a long time ago that on some Mazeratis there were like four shocks per wheel. I stuck with electronics LOL. In fact last year we did a head job (due to a jumped timing chain) on a Chevy Ecotec engine. I want NOTHING to do with them anymore.

Anyway, camber matter most on turns. the rest of it not so much. Measuring it entails getting the geometry of the hub/tire/whatever at a straight on position and then comparing that to it at a turning position. Camber goes along with the geometry of the whole steering assembly to establish toe out on turns, because one wheel is turning a larger radius than the other. You don't generally set that except maybe on big semi trucks. It is simply figured out when they design it. T%The camber does affect it, but really you don't have to set that unless you change the lower A frame. Even changing the whole strut tower is not likely to affect it much, enough to worry about anyway.

And people want to worry about **** like this when the brake lines are rusting out and the software that runs the engine is about to crash. Gimme a 1967 Chevy, really. Now on those you DID set the camber. It is all in the shop manual. (not a Chilton's)