On Thu, 8 Dec 2016 20:17:43 -0000 (UTC), John Harmon
wrote:

amdx actually said:

I assume that is the wheel and not a hub cap.

The car I will test this out first on is a bimmer with alloy wheels and lug
bolts so both those traits make the task of bolting on a jig easier than if
it were a steel wheel with lug nuts.

I'm guessing your looking for something between 0.5* and 2*, but I want
to know.

I later found this BMW spec which shows that I need accuracy in 1 or 2
minutes ( http://i.cubeupload.com/cfaDWp.jpg ) but how do I convert that 1
and 2 minutes to inches?

Someone said you need accuracy within .01 degrees, that's 1% of 1
degree.

I think he meant inches though.

Good luck getting the 18 year old at the tire shop to do that.
I'd be happy with 10%, being that it is an adjustable characteristic
that can depend on how you want to drive the car, comfort or cornering.

I understand that the alignment shop guy might not care all that much to
get as accurate as he can.

Right now, I think the accuracy needs to be plus or minus one minute for
toe and 2 minutes for camber.

I just don't know how to convert minutes to inches.
There is a saying about Bimmers.
If you have to ask how much - for anything - you can't afford to drive
a bimmer.. There are enough things that can go wrong in the front end
of one of those kraut-wagons that I think you are definitely being
penny wise and pound foolish trying to save $100 on the maintenance of
a late model Bimmer. Don't be such a cheap-ass. - or drive a Chevy.

You want to know if anything is worn or bent - and measuring CASTER is
required as well to know. You really don't have your head around the
concepts well enough to understand WHY an alignment check should be
done properly. Your "quick check" is just that - and if you are at all
in tune with your car as a driver you will know there is something
wrong just as well by simply driving the car. If you are not "in tune
with the car" the Bimmer is wasted on you --- (as it is on the vast
majority of Bimmer owners)