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amdx[_3_] amdx[_3_] is offline
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Default Advice requested from those of you who have successfully checkedcamber at home

On 12/8/2016 2:17 PM, John Harmon wrote:
amdx actually said:

I assume that is the wheel and not a hub cap.


The car I will test this out first on is a bimmer with alloy wheels and lug
bolts so both those traits make the task of bolting on a jig easier than if
it were a steel wheel with lug nuts.

I'm guessing your looking for something between 0.5* and 2*, but I want
to know.


I later found this BMW spec which shows that I need accuracy in 1 or 2
minutes ( http://i.cubeupload.com/cfaDWp.jpg ) but how do I convert that 1
and 2 minutes to inches?

Someone said you need accuracy within .01 degrees, that's 1% of 1
degree.


I think he meant inches though.

Good luck getting the 18 year old at the tire shop to do that.
I'd be happy with 10%, being that it is an adjustable characteristic
that can depend on how you want to drive the car, comfort or cornering.


I understand that the alignment shop guy might not care all that much to
get as accurate as he can.

Right now, I think the accuracy needs to be plus or minus one minute for
toe and 2 minutes for camber.

I just don't know how to convert minutes to inches.


Something wrong, 30 minutes is equal to 0.5 degrees.
1 minute is 0.0167 degrees, I don't think that's what you are after.

You might play with a trig calculator.
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp

I put in a 1 degree angle for (angle a) and 16" for
(side B) Then hit calculate to find (side a).
This says you need 0.279" of tilt top to bottom
on a 16" wheel.
Note: this triangle is rotated 90* to your wheel.
So take that into account when thinking about the calculation.
Bottom line, for a 1 degree angle you need a tilt of 0.279" over 16".
That's measurable, but you need a post 90* off the floor.

Mikek