On Friday, December 2, 2016 at 8:27:08 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 10:10:37 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 9:10:52 PM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 5:30:30 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
After you open up the wall behind the shower, buy shutoff valves (I would
suggest ball valves with a waste port such as:
http://www.dongyavalve.com/products/...0valve122.html ). That way, you
can install them first and then continue the job later if needed without
having to turn off water in the whole house.


Good idea but I don't think there's room. There's a sink and vanity on the back side of the shower and I have to work above it. I may be able to screw a plug into the supply depending on whether it's threaded or soldered.


Can you cut the pipes and put a SharkBite cap on them while you do most of the tear-out and
install?

BTDT

Probably so. When I replaced my kitchen sink faucet, I couldn't finish the job that night so I capped the lines and turned the water back on. I still have those caps but they are threaded and who knows what I'll find inside the wall.

Threaded to Solid SharkBite adapters:

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/threaded-adapters/

SharkBite Caps:

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/end-caps/

When you are ready to un-cap, use the appropriate SharkBite connector
from the threaded adapter to your copper or Pex to the new fixture.

Or use a SharkBite Shutoff on the threaded adapter:

http://www.sharkbite.com/product-cat...upply-fitting/

Obviously, you need to open the wall to see what you have, but you don't
have to cut anything right away. Open the wall, plan the job, buy the
parts. As a grizzled old plumber once said to me:

"Buy everything you think you might possibly need. It can all be returned."