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John Rumm John Rumm is offline
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Default Are 3A plug fuses really necessary? Why not always 13A?

On 20/11/2016 22:01, wrote:
On Sunday, 20 November 2016 16:46:30 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/11/2016 14:56, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 20 November 2016 11:39:41 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

You won't get a adequate fault current through too many cascaded
leads, but fitting all extension leads with 3A fuses in case someone
may cascade them seems a bit self defeating.

Plug fuses are available in 2A 3A 5A 7A 10A & 13A rating. Fitting the
correct one to leads is hardly self defeating, it prevents fires.

I'd be surprised if you found devices around with as many cable sizes as
that in use these days.

I'm pretty sure I have all those values in service bar 7A. Appliances cover the full range.



Read the bit that follows:

And as regards protecting the device itself, you may need a more specific
type of fuse, like fast blow or whatever.


Did you see it mention the fuse in the plug? Or did it just refer to a
fuse protecting the device?

I doubt it.


Give it five mins thought and I doubt that you doubt it...

How many appliances have you seen with internal 20mm glass fuses? Were
they all fast blow? All the same rating?

Thermal fuses and cutouts?

Internal fuses are typically for overload protection where there are
plausible failure modes that could generate non fault over currents.
(glass cartridge fuses don't usually have the breaking capacity for
fault protection)


All of which is irrelevant to picking a plug fuse for a historic item.

Hint: 20mm fuses did't even exist. And internal fuses were not usually used.


Why keep prattling about historic devices, when it has already been
accepted by everyone that they are a special case? They have no
relevance to current practice.

--
Cheers,

John.

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