View Single Post
  #36   Report Post  
Mark Wilson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Grounding Rod Info

Mark,

"Mark Wilson" wrote in message
...
"Mark Wilson" wrote in message

What you say makes sense, but the cable makes it to the Service

Disconnect
within 3 feet of entering the building, and the panelboard is right next

to
it. I'm pretty sure the "electrician" (and I use that term lightly.. he

he)
just didn't want to mess with shutting power off at the meter or having

to
call the Power Co. Plus, he wouldn't have to rewire as much.

Because the panelboard also has it's own 100A breaker (which has never

been
thrown) I'm even more likely to believe things are okay for now.


With what you've said now, your panels are OK. Both are service rated
panels, and you have two disconnects. One of those disconnects is not

really
needed and could be removed. Or, perhaps replace it with a 100A transfer
switch if you've thought about generator power...


oh no, not another tangent... lol. (generator) I was wrong about the
panelboard. It's actually rated at 200A and the breaker is 200, not 100.
I'm still considering an upgrade to 200A. Because the panelboard is rated
for 200, if I upgrade to 200, I could skip the first disconnect which might
be the cost effective way to go. This would mean about a 5 foot run from
the outside meter to the panelboard. If I did this, I'm guessing I'd just
run all my GEC and other grounds from the ground bus bar. I might check
back with you guys on a few things, but I've got enough to get to work now
and I think I'll let this thread die.

Oh, but I am still wondering about that ground conductor going from the
Service Disconnect to my water meter and pipe (from the inside of the
house). Is it bad for the bare conductor to contact armored cable (bx) or
metal duct work? Knowing the answer will make a big difference in the
amount of work I have to do to run the wire.

Thanks for all your help and advice.