"Mark Wilson" wrote in message
...
I uploaded two images. The top image show the first box power comes into,
or the service disconnect. The bottom picture is the modern service panel
which branches off from the service disconnect.

Service Disconnect:
Does it look like this busbar will be able to support 4 outgoing
conductors?
1. #4 ground going to grounding rod(s)
2. #4 ground going to water pipe
3. Big gague mesh going to service panel neutral bus bar
4. #4 ground going to service panel ground bus bar

Looks ugly. You may want to look for a normal 5 to 8 hole panel grounding
bus bar and screw it to that disconnect panel. They can usually accomodate
wires up to #4, and some will go even larger. They require a #10 threaded
hole in your chassis. If you don't have that, you can get double lugs that
bolt to the panel, but you'll need two it doesn't look like they'll fit.


If I can't put more than one conductor on each bolt, then I'm guessing
I'll
have to upgrade. Will I need to change the whole box or can I just
upgrade
the bar?

May want to buy a new disconnect. Yours looks old and it may be difficult to
now the listings for multiple wires under a screw. Getting compatible bars
may even be a problem. I bought a 3R (raintight) Cutler Hammer disconnect
that can do up to 125A for about $30 at home depot.


Modern Service Panel:
Some connections have actually be corrected since this picture was taken,
but please comment as-is and I'll know what to change. You'll notice
that
it's upside down. This is how it was installed. The #4 ground coming
from
the service disconnect enters the panel and attaches to the LEFT bus bar.
It attaches to the bus bar in the same as you would install a wire for a
new
circuit. Is it correct to assume this wire should have been installed to
the heavier bolt to the lower left of the bar?

Please identify at which point the ground bus grounds to the box.

You have more serious problems here (I think volts500 answered some of these
questions in a combined reply). You only have 3 wires, and must have 4. It
also appears that you have a mix of neutrals and grounds on each bus.
Hopefully, the neutrals are on one side and the ground on the other. If not,
you need to rearrange them so that is the case. It looks like that big
horizontal bar is connecting both your busses together. This needs to come
out if you're separating the neutral and ground (unless there is yet another
grounding bus that I don't see, but I don't know where it would fit). Then,
connect an insulated neutral to the neutral bus and a grounding wire to the
grounding bus. I'm not sure if that braided neutral counts as an insulated
neutral. You should replace that cable with SER (3 insulated, 1 braided
ground), or some other suitable wire/cable type.

Also, look for the bus that has a bonding screw into the cabinet back. This
is the bus that must be ground. The other should be insulated and will be
the neutral (hopefully, either bar can be bonded depending on which one you
put the screw in). It doesn't matter which hole the ground wire uses,
because the screws have a minimum and maximum wire limit -- just use one
that is correct for your wire (and use the correct bus).

I can't see enough to now how salvagable this is -- you may need to start
over.

--
Mark
Kent, WA