I agree with BOB, the rejuv is way too strong on the older units for the newer
CRTs. The cathodes are alot smaller and likely to "melt down".

If I can remember to do it, I can write down the levels and durations of the
rejuv settings on the CR7000, which is probably one of the best on the market.
They're given right on the case, i.e. restore-normal 1 ma 10 sec. and so forth.
While adapting the older machine to test the CRTs is fine, it may be easier to
actually build a circuit that emulates these levels and durations. You also
might have some luck in modifying the older machine to lower current levels
more in line for the newer cathodes.

The only thing the CR7000 sucks at is removing G1 shorts, it lets it cool down
first and the short is frequently gone. I have no idea why their engineers did
that, it renders the function near useless. I've already had to resort to other
methods, after spending over $1000 for the CR7000.

Also consider that when all three guns are soft, you get alot better and
usually longer lasting results by boosting the heater voltage. You don't need
fancy transformers, just jumping or changing the value of a resistor usually
does the trick. Since most filaments are powered by the flyback, you can add a
winding as long as you can get a piece of wire through the core, but you only
need to do this if the resistor value is already so low that jumping it
doesn''t give you enough boost. Also, if you deal with these units on a long
term, you can later restore the filament voltage to normal and proceed to rejuv
the CRT. Right in Sencore's book it says "restoration/rejuvination is a
subtractive process" and proceeds to tell you to use the lowest level nessecary
to do the job.

Good luck at any rate.

JURB