For those interested (and I am not suggesting anyone in their right minds
should rely on the views of this complete novice) I have to thank those on
these forums for your assistance and to Chuck for this solution wihch I
suspected was causing the problem from day one. Needless to say, it was and
before I started posting I had confirmed by my Super that when this happens,
everyone calls out a plumber at huge expense and CUTS out that one way valve
and replaces it with a new one. In practice if the valve is the problem the
plumber will have solved it or if th blockage was the problem, replacing the
valve will have let water flow through the pipe while the valve was being
replaced and solved it as a by product as well.

So people MAY be interested in my experience as no one seemed to think that
anything could be done by undoing that nut on the top of the valve.

I did this and found the interior to be exactly as described on the line
drawing. The top comes off fairly easily. There is a simple flap in it.
THere is generally nothing blocking between the flap and the drain for
reasonably obvious reasons. But you can pick the flap up with a dental pick
(cost in a flea market, approx 5 cents) and push START on the dishwasher.
Followed by START on a GE unit five seconds later to stop it. This has the
effect of pushing whatever is OBVIOUSLY blocking the line to the valve and
hopefully past it. In my case an olive pip and a small piece of paper were
the cause which was stopping the dishwasher from draining properly. It had
been doing so in fact for a year or so with us wondering if the dishwasher
needed changing (as everyone I suppose does when their dishwasher stops
cleaning properly? As Chuck implies, the water isn't draining properly, the
float is stopping water in put when the water in the unit reaches the proper
level and the dishes are always being cleaned with dirty water)

It may be advisable to siphon out whatever water is lying in the bottom of
the dishwasher and you may need to repeat this process a few times but
eventually whatever is blocking the line will come through and water will
start spewing out of the top of the valve, meaning that you have unblocked
it andwater is now flowing freely. Although not too much spews out, put the
nut back on fairly quickly (while it is spewing). It doesn't SEEM to have
been secured with any of that plumber's white tape to make it waterproof (I
am not sure why) and I didn't put any back on, preferring to leave the brass
to brass tight for the moment and see what happens. I may have to revise my
opinion on that if it starts to leak?

Suddenly hey presto, the whole dishwasher starts to clean properly as if it
were new!

The obvious question arises, why does a newish GE Profile dishwasher not
have a filter in it to assure that it will keep on cleaning dishes properly?
Why does GE insist on relying on a plastic sheet with holes in it and a sort
of impeller on all their dishwashers to break up bits and try to stop this
blockage happening when OBVIOUSLY this doesnt work? Do they pull this trick
on their customers with their astronomically expensive Monogram units as
well? Do ALL European dishwashers have filters?

(The other obvious question is how quickly will I find that the constant
heating up and cooling down of the metal parts in the valve every time very
hot water goes through it will cause the nut to expand, contract and
eventually loosen? Or will the water which is always in the valve actually
prevent this happening?)

Licensed to Quill

"Chuck" wrote in message
news:yHqoc.77881$kh4.4479691@attbi_s52...

"Licensed to Quill" wrote in message
...
LICENSED TO QUILL WROTE:

my GE profile GSD 5930 dishwasher. It works properly
but doesn't drain either properly or completely. RESULT the dishes are
always cleaned with somewhat dirty water and the unit is left with a
full
tub

Check the drain hose, and the vacuum breaker for partial blockage. This
can put enough back pressure on the pump that it is unable to fully drain
the dishwasher during the cycle time.

--Chuck