On 9/17/2016 6:30 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 23:22:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/16/2016 10:30 PM, krw wrote:
On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 19:03:58 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/16/2016 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
On 9/16/2016 4:05 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Thu, 15 Sep 2016 20:23:59 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 9/12/2016 9:34 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:w6udnbxP_IVev0rKnZ2dnUU7-
:

I would be interested in hearing what you objection would be to
using
loose tenons.

Just don't like them. I like the classical mortise and
tenon.

Of course, I'm not a production shop cutting thousands of
mortises a year, so I can afford to be old school. I cut
my tenons by hand with a Lie-Neilsen tenon saw most of
the time, something else you wouldn't do.

J. Clarke's 400-odd mortise and tenons, spread over 3 or 4
years as he appears to envision, seems to me practical to
do in the classical way.

John



An absolute valid reason. ;~)

Well, I looked at the Dominos today. The little one is right out--I
don't see where it offers any advantages over the XL and there wouldn't
be enough mortise depth past the cope to provide much benefit. The XL
can go 2.75 inches deep which is a big improvement. Be dandy for
windows but a little short for full sized frame-and-panel doors.

For that job, the little one doesn't have any advantages but that's
why they have both models. The big one doesn't do Dominoes smaller
than 10mm, IIRC. That's kinda big for most woodworking.

There's an adapter to use the cutters from the 500 in the 700.

And actually the larger domino will "normally" accept down to a 8mm bit.
Keep in mind also that the Domino only comes with one sized cutter
unless you buy the assortment of Dominos also.

You will need/want to attach a vac to the Domino to keep the holes
cleaned out. With that combination virtually no saw dust or shavings
escape. It is a very clean operation.


And just a few other things to consider. There is no risk with buying a
Domino mortiser. You can use it for 30 days and if it will not do what
you want it to do you can return it, no problem.

I predominately use 5mm domino tenons, I am on my 3rd box of 1,800 and I
went through the initial 600 that came with the assortment also. So
that is about 4800 Dominos in the 5mm size and 9600 mortises.
That is a load of mortises. I am still using the original 5mm cutter
bit and have never had it resharpened. Considering a regular chisel
and bit mortiser, how often do you think you will have to resharpen the
chisel?


I am not trying to sell you or steer you in any direction so much as
giving you views of my experience. I have not turned my Delta mortiser
on in over 8 years since getting the Domino.



One thing that I have not mentioned. While the Domino mortisers have an
indexing system to register the location from the end of a board, I do
not trust it.
Every joint that I use the Domino on I use an exact fit mortise on one
mating piece and an elongated mortice on the other mating piece, you
simply adjust a dial to do this. This gives you wiggle room of about
1/8" left and right, probably a bit more with larger bits. This also
lets you make marks on mating pieces for placement like you would with a
biscuit joiner. I typically cut the exact fit mortise on the end of a
board, the rail and the elongated mortise on the edge of a board, the stile.

This is why I'm a little confused over the objection to the mortise
length of the Domino. They don't have to be through.







I think Swingman has mentioned a time or two getting the bigger Domino.
I think for a furniture and cabinet builder that the 500 is perfect.
While the big one would be nice to have, I seriously doubt that a
furniture/cabinet maker would ever need more than the 500.
The Domino makes quality builds a dream come true with its accuracy and
lightning speed compared to conventional machinery like a mortiser.
I am convened that a woodworker that is serious about building quality
furniture that the Domino is an answer to many how do I do it questions.

In Clark's case he has a particular need and the 700 could possibly be
"the answer" if "he" can make it work. IMHO if he could make it work
the 700 would be used much more in future projects than a mortiser.

That was exactly my point. Unless you're a door-maker or
butcher-block maker (are there any of those?) I don't see the need for
the 700. Maybe if you want to build a house without nails... ;-)
The 500 is probably the slickest tool around, though.

Near as I can tell, there is one thing that the 500 will do that the 700
will not--the 500 has an extra width setting (its settings are an exact
fit, 6mm wider, and 10mm wider, the XL only does the exact and 6, not
the 10). I thought this would matter but there aren't wider tenons to
take advantage of it near as I can tell and cutting wider seems pretty
easy anyway.

The wider cut than exact fit is NOT for wider tenons, it is to allow
wiggle room and in so much that I never use the widest setting, the
"just" wider than exact fit works well.
I'm not sure if you saw my comment about using exact fit on one side of
the joint and the wider cut for the opposite side but that certainly
makes life easier. I doubt you will ever see any loss of strength by
using the wider mortise cut for all of your joint unions.





That makes the 700 a very easy decision and at this point
I'm leaning in that direction. In fact I'm leaning pretty hard in that
direction. I'd be making storm windows with it right now if I hadn't
found out when I got to Woodcraft that I had FORGOTTEN MY DARNED
WALLET!!!



Turns out that that Festool even has instructions in the user
manual for using it with coped sash.

Bonus!