On 9/16/2016 4:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 9/15/2016 7:23 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 9/12/2016 9:34 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:w6udnbxP_IVev0rKnZ2dnUU7-
:

I would be interested in hearing what you objection would be to using
loose tenons.

Just don't like them. I like the classical mortise and
tenon.

Of course, I'm not a production shop cutting thousands of
mortises a year, so I can afford to be old school. I cut
my tenons by hand with a Lie-Neilsen tenon saw most of
the time, something else you wouldn't do.

J. Clarke's 400-odd mortise and tenons, spread over 3 or 4
years as he appears to envision, seems to me practical to
do in the classical way.

John



An absolute valid reason. ;~)

Well, I looked at the Dominos today. The little one is right out--I
don't see where it offers any advantages over the XL and there wouldn't
be enough mortise depth past the cope to provide much benefit. The XL
can go 2.75 inches deep which is a big improvement. Be dandy for
windows but a little short for full sized frame-and-panel doors.

Actually many custom builders are using the larger Domino for large
wooden doors.

Click on the video

http://festoolusa.com/power-tools/joiners/professional/




Come to think the Leigh will have a similar limitation--it can't cut any
deeper than the longest router bit I can get.

OK, I think that's going to be the deciding factor--the Domino and the
Leigh would be working at the limit of what they can do, the Powermatic
will be right in the middle of its capability range on doors--the
windows should be a breeze for it.

Unless there's a compelling argument otherwise that I've missed.



Good observations but mortisers are S L O W compared to a Domino.

FWIW and having used both a Domino is as fast to use per joint as a
biscuit cutter.
A mortiser is maybe twice as fast as doing by hand by an experienced
wood worker.

A mortiser does half of the joint, you still have to cut tenons and
every fit is probably going to have to be tweaked. The Domino does both
sides of the joint perfectly almost instantly.

I bought my Domino with the expectation to use it like my biscuit
joiner. The tool is so versatile that I have used it 10 more than I
ever did with the biscuit cutter.

I looked at the video. Not the style of door or window I have in mind.
Any links on using the Domino with a coped joint?


Not that I recall, but I do lap joints and reinforce with the domino.
So mortising a surface with intricate edges is no issue.

As long as you have a solid surface to register against, you can add a
mortise to a coped edge/joint.

Take a look here this is a reinforced lap joint.


The mortises were cut after cutting the 1/4" thick tongue which will
engage the mating rabbet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

How it fits with the domino tenon in the thicker 2/3" of the joint.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Freshly cut mortises. The Domino motiser's face registers against the
tongue and I simply adjust the depth of plunge and extra 12mm to span
the 1/2" gap.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The fact that there is not a total solid surface should not matter. All
you need is a face on the work for the fence to rest on and an edge for
the face of the mortiser to register against.


The rails with mortises,
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And the mating stiles with the mortises.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These joints are very strong when reinforced with a Domino and I
reinforce all of these joints with the Domino.

If I added a decorative edge and or use my rail and stile bits the
Domino could reinforce those joints too.