"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 01:44:27 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:
On 07/06/2016 22:39, michael adams wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
. I am not sure I would fancy climbing with a normal electric saw.
There's no need. As with everythng else you might need at the top of a ladder
you tie a rope around it and just take the rope(s) up with you and pull
them up afterwards. Small stuff in a bucket etc. All of which can also
have loops to hang it from branches or hooks
Not really what I was talking about... I was more thinking of using the
saw at height, where you may need to use the saw safely one handed. You
can do that with a top handle saw, but not a normal layout one.
And the whole thing about working in a tree by 'climbing' (typically
with rope and harness and / or strop and spikes to get up into the
canopy) is you don't have to keep hold of a ladder and so have both
hands free for use (inc a two handed saw).
But hold on. Only just a while back you posted this
If you read the manual for that type of saw:
"CHAIN SAW 2000W TTB355CHN6.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR CHAIN SAW.
d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree.
So have you now changed your mind about it being permissable to
use a two handed saw* in a tree ?
Oh and BTW nobody is suggesting anyone has to hold onto a
ladder. In order to develop a strong trunk, the standard
procedure for most trees is to remove all the lower
branches usually to a height of six or eight feet
leaving a smooth trunk. And so short of trying to
jump the usual expedient is to use a ladder to get
get up to the branches.
*Simply because a saw is two handed doesn't necessarily
mean it takes requires to hands to operate. A rope sling
or similar around the neck can be looped through
the top handle and the saw suspended from that.
Certainly when making vertical cuts in horizontal
branches
All the electrics I've ever used have an instant brake -
the saw stops dead as soon as the trigger is
released which IMHO anyway means that anyone with
any appreciation of kickback and the importance of
not binding the saw - by taking two or more angled
cuts and removing segments rather than going straight
through would need to be pretty dumb to come to grief.
The chainsaw is only used for the bulk of the cut in
any case. Once the branch start to creak its an easy
matter to finish the job with a bowsaw.
This also comes into it for many (professionals):
http://www.trees.org.uk/Help-Advice/...king-at-height
(tree climbers will normally have the saw on a lanyard anyway, so they
can climb freely and pull the saw up to use when they need it, and
simply "drop" it when they are done).
Yup. Ideally they will also be anchored to the tree with a 'wire'
strop that can't be accidentally cut though with the saw, unlike their
climbing and safety lines. ;-(
The safety lines won't be under tension so why wouldn't they drape
them behind their shoulder as is standard practice with cords
when using power tools.
And much of this climbing gear needs regular (6 months?) LOLER testing
....
http://www.ecotreecare.co.uk/loler-inspection.htm
(archive page but still relevant)
Relevant how exactly ?
So how often will your average DIY'er be using all this
climbing gear ?
Unlike DIY'ers professionals are in a hurry, and need to satisfy
insurance companies; who for sound business reasons need to assume
that all the people they insure are idiots. Who will therefore
need to be kitted out with idiot proof equipment. At great
expense natch.
michael adams
....