How old are you steve ? I've been using rip and crosscut
since 1952. This is before all of the fancy power junk that
splinter the wood.

I know what I'm talking about. Running along the grain is
smooth cutting and you will splinter the board if you use a crosscut.

Martin

On 6/2/2016 5:52 AM, steve robinson wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 22:48:39 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

The two types of long hand saws - Rip and crosscut.
Almost everyone has a crosscut saw - it has teeth that are bent side to
side.

Rip saws have teeth that are inline without any set. Wax the saw and
let it rip!

Rubbish, all saws have set on them otherwise they bind when cutting

The set should run between 1.2 and 1.6 of the blade on standard cross
cut/ panel saws or rip saws although some timbers might require a set
of 2.00 of the blade ( very rare )

You never set greater than this because the Centrex of the blade fails
to make contact with the timber properly , makes the saws cutting
action rough

You set the saw according to they type of timber and moisture
content, hence old joiners may have several handsaws hanging in the
shop

Generally speaking the drier the timber the less set is required.

If you need to wax up a saw on a regular basis to cut your saw is
incorrectly set or your using the wrong saw.





The crosscut cuts a wider kerf as the fibers are facing the blade and
will bind the saw if the kerf isn't wide enough.

Martin


On 5/30/2016 11:26 PM, Michael wrote:
On Monday, May 30, 2016 at 6:05:18 PM UTC-5, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message
...

I'm making some oak and cedar boxes with hand tools only, and I want to
resaw 3/4 inch boards to 1/4. My current hand saw takes about a year and a
half to get the job done, and I'm wondering if I'm better off buying a
course cutting hand saw, maybe a 9 pt or so. Does anyone have any
experience or advice for this project?

I'm sure others would have differing opinions, but here's my take on it:

For this type of work a rip saw is generally used and the tpi would
generally be in the 4-5 range. You need rather large gullets to clear the
swarf while resawing... If the stock is under saw 3" in width you could use
a rip saw with 6-7 tpi but I wouldn't even try resawing with anything finer
as the swarf would all but keep it from cutting. If you were ripping a board
to width the higher tpi saws can give fine results but for rough work even
there a 4-5 tpi saw would be preferred for speed.

Some examples include:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42884,63338
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...l-saw-rip-cut-

or perhaps a rip frame saw:

http://www.blackburntools.com/new-to...ade/index.html
http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.html

John and Swingman,

Thanks for the good direction! I've watched this video a couple of times and I think I'll make the kerf plane and the frame saw and go from there. The kerf plane is apparently this guy's own invention. It appears to work great. I probably won't go for the man bun though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtmswWZ4Lvo

Mike