The two types of long hand saws - Rip and crosscut.
Almost everyone has a crosscut saw - it has teeth that are bent side to
side.

Rip saws have teeth that are inline without any set. Wax the saw and
let it rip!

The crosscut cuts a wider kerf as the fibers are facing the blade and
will bind the saw if the kerf isn't wide enough.

Martin


On 5/30/2016 11:26 PM, Michael wrote:
On Monday, May 30, 2016 at 6:05:18 PM UTC-5, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message
...

I'm making some oak and cedar boxes with hand tools only, and I want to
resaw 3/4 inch boards to 1/4. My current hand saw takes about a year and a
half to get the job done, and I'm wondering if I'm better off buying a
course cutting hand saw, maybe a 9 pt or so. Does anyone have any
experience or advice for this project?

I'm sure others would have differing opinions, but here's my take on it:

For this type of work a rip saw is generally used and the tpi would
generally be in the 4-5 range. You need rather large gullets to clear the
swarf while resawing... If the stock is under saw 3" in width you could use
a rip saw with 6-7 tpi but I wouldn't even try resawing with anything finer
as the swarf would all but keep it from cutting. If you were ripping a board
to width the higher tpi saws can give fine results but for rough work even
there a 4-5 tpi saw would be preferred for speed.

Some examples include:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42884,63338
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...l-saw-rip-cut-

or perhaps a rip frame saw:

http://www.blackburntools.com/new-to...ade/index.html
http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.html

John and Swingman,

Thanks for the good direction! I've watched this video a couple of times and I think I'll make the kerf plane and the frame saw and go from there. The kerf plane is apparently this guy's own invention. It appears to work great. I probably won't go for the man bun though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtmswWZ4Lvo

Mike