View Single Post
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Diesel Diesel is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,131
Default Wiring electric baseboard

trader_4
Sun, 29
May 2016 14:45:19 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:


Like Gfre said, a resistance heater isn't going to increase it's
current draw because there is some additional resistance in the
circuit. It's like saying a light bulb will burn just as bright
with a rheostat in the circuit to dim it, because it's going to
pull additional current to compensate for the lower voltage.
Put additional resistance in the circuit and the total current
goes down, not up. And the difference here, the resistance in
that wire is negligible.


That isn't what I'm saying at all. I'm saying that the further out
you go with 12/2 (or any wire really, it just depends on the
thickness of the wire, the power you started with, and how far you're
actually going), the less available voltage you'll have at the end of
the run.

The less volts you have, the more amps you'll need to make up the
difference to get the desired wattage.

Also, the 10/2 isn't going to be near capacity at any time, either.
even if he has them all going on high at the same time. The 12/2
however, will be depending on the amount of heaters going and their
setting(s).

going by Ugly:

7.9 volts lost 12/2 at 100ft
4.97 volts lost on 10/2 at 100ft

240-7.9=232.1 on the 12ga
240-4.97=235 on the 10ga

1500/232.1=6.5 amps *rounded up*
1500/235=6.39 amps *rounded up*

And that's due entirely to distance with no loads present on the line
yet.

100ft on 12/2 according to my 2014 edition of Ugly's electrical
reference is a net loss of 7.9 volts at the end of the run, with no
load present, yet. At 125 ft out, the loss increases to 9.8 volts.
And, obviously gets worse from there.

OTH, the 10/2 wire loses 4.97 volts at 100ft and 6.21 volts at 125ft
out. I'd rather get as many volts to the device (heaters) as is
realistically possible. The closer I can get to their expected input
voltage, the less amps they'll require to do their jobs. The more
heat I'll get (which is obviously the point here) and the less power
I'll use doing it. A win win win.

To do anything less is only costing me more money and time in the
future. The 12/2 is going to heat up a bit more under various
conditions than the 10/2 ever thought about doing, even if all
heaters were on at the same time, on HIGH. Over time, the 12/2 wire
will degrade due to heating/cooling cycles that the 10/2 won't have
experienced. As it degrades, it's own resistance will increase.

Another side effect of running the wire warm/possibly hot to the
touch at near full load over a period of time is that the connection
points and terminals in the panel and the heaters will also become a
little 'warmer' than they would if they'd been powered from the 10/2
line and pigtailed to it with a short 12/2 run.

A random internet posting is your cited source of information?


Uhh, no. I remembered it was 100ft or so off hand as the general rule
of thumb, but didn't remember how much voltage was lost as a result.
I've also got various NEC books and my 2014 edition of the yellow
Ugly electricians reference book. It's where the voltage drop figures
I used today came from, actually.

That's right, just use 12 gauge which NEC says is perfectly fine.
You're the one throwing all kinds of FUD in and using incorrect
calculations.


Just to clarify, the calculations I provided in this post aren't FUD,
unless you're able to dismiss the yellow Ugly electrician reference
book. I haven't seen any 240volt baseboard heater wired with a 12/2
in sometime, actually. I think the last time I actually observed that
was with a trailer. Alas, they're built with heavy consideration on
cost. IE: as cheap as you can get away with. I don't work like that,
I don't offer advice with that in mind first and foremost.

If it were me, writing only for myself, I'd spend the extra money for
the heavier gauge wire and use the 12/2 wire for pigtailing off of it
into the heater units. I've already explained why I'd run it in this
manner. No real point in doing so again.



--
MID:
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That
seems VERY clever!
http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400