On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:17:56 PM UTC-4, Danny DiAmico wrote:


Do you think if I put in a new board, that it will also blow?

First, the capacitor visible from the top is toast - the top has clearly swelled, a condition that is typical of a short.

The one large trace looks like a fusible link designed to fail, which, of course, it did. But, that is also likely to be a coincidence rather than an actual design element.

And you also lost a disc cap - that is quite unusual and takes onehelluva spike to accomplish. Which would also explain the fried resistors. Replace it with a new cap of the same value, but with a rating of at least 400V, 600 being better.

There is lots-O-SMT stuff going on, a major PITA to repair unless you have steady hands and good eyesight. Not impossible, but not easy.

I would try to repair the board first - unless a replacement is cheap and time is of the essence. Replace BOTH large electrolytic capacitors, go up one rating (at least) in voltage, and also look for a higher temperature rating than OEM, if one will fit.

You will need to find out whether the resistor near the burn is still good, and its value (don't assume) before you replace it and rebuild the burnt trace. On the long trace, some copper foil will do, solder it to the burnt ends and then trace it over with solder. Once that is done, a bit of CA to hold it to the board will finish the job.

As to putting in a new board, unless you check the ingoing and outgoing voltages, there is no guarantee that there was not an outside cause. But given the appearance of the electrolytics, I suspect they are the first cause.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA