On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 21:17:17 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 14/04/16 20:01, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 14:05:30 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 10:37:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
news On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 21:26:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:32:14 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

John B. wrote:

John Doe wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
John Doe wrote:
Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket
on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum
fits
over
the bottom bracket square tapered spindle.
Why can't you use a proper crank with spider that takes
replaceable
ring gears?
Because I'm using a 450 max RPM motor to turn the
sprocket/chainring.
The chainring must be extraordinarily small, like 14 to 18
teeth.
There are no crankssets with chainrings that small. That,
plus I
wouldn't want/need the extra hardware.
Inner chain rings on a triple often are in the 20-something
tooth
range. I'm looking at a 24 tooth at the moment and there is
easily
enough meat there to go to 20 teeth and maybe even smaller.
Even if it could be down to 20 teeth, it wouldn't work for my
application.

If there were an easier way to do it, I would have found it. I
already
have turned the other three parts of making an electric bike
into
ridiculously easy tasks (with hardly any tools). Easily cutting
a
square
hole through an appropriate piece of metal would make it all
four.
One can only speculate, "is your way the best way"?
--
Cheers,
John B.
"If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail".

True, but all problems aren't nails. I think that you'll have
problems
installing window glass with your hammer.
--

Cheers,

John B.
A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old
putty and
tap in the glazier's points.

I was going to say the same thing as I have glazed windows before
myself.

The old, diamond-shaped ones aren't hammered. They're pushed in with
a
screwdriver-like tool that's made for the job.

You may be using the newer, triangular glazing points that have a
little flange on the window side, right?

My windows (and zinc glazing points) are 92 years old. I've used
them
on about a dozen windows and as many wood-framed storn sashes. The
points are around 3/8" long, on the longest dimension.

--
Ed Huntress
I make doors, windows, frames etc out of oak from my sawmill. It takes
considerable force to install the points.
I think mine are all spruce, except for a replacement I made out of
fir. The little diamond-shaped points push in with ease.

I hope you didn't make your window frames out of red oak, did you?
That stuff wisks water like soda straws. That's why they don't use it
to build boats.

90% of the oak here is red oak, so I don't do much with it.

Interesting what you say as a wood worker I know here in the UK
mentioned that US oak is rubbish outdoors whereas UK and European oak is
fine. US oak may start to rot after only a few years outside whereas
local oak can be outside for 50+ years and still be fine, I have some
60+ year oak boundary markers on my house boundary. My doctor had a mail
box made at some expense and I suspect it was made of US oak as it was
rotting after a few years outdoors apparently. Any way to tell the
difference between red oak and other varieties.

There are some ways, but keep in mind there are at least ten "red oak"
varieties and about as many white oak types. (The primary oak from the
UK was known as "brown oak" here, but I don't know what you call it.)

Jim must be having good luck with his red oak because it can rot in a
hurry. White oak is slightly heavier and considerably more expensive
around here. You're probably getting red oak from the US. The physical
difference is that white oak's pores are blocked with little nodes at
close intervals, like bamboo, while those of red oak can be open for a
foot or more.

Here is a pretty good guide to distinguishing the two. Acolytes of R.
Bruce Hoadley's _Understanding Wood_ (like me) often acquire a 15X
Hastings Triplet magnifier for distinguishing wood types, and carry a
*very* sharp pocketkinfe or a razor blade to make a clean cut across
the end grain:

http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ar...rom-white-oak/

--
Ed Huntress