"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 14:05:30 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 10:37:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
news On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 21:26:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
news:vaptgb5pis8egbpb763kn9ulf17fp5udvi@4ax .com...
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:32:14 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

John B. wrote:

John Doe wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front
sprocket
on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum
fits
over
the bottom bracket square tapered spindle.

Why can't you use a proper crank with spider that takes
replaceable
ring gears?

Because I'm using a 450 max RPM motor to turn the
sprocket/chainring.
The chainring must be extraordinarily small, like 14 to 18
teeth.
There are no crankssets with chainrings that small. That,
plus I
wouldn't want/need the extra hardware.

Inner chain rings on a triple often are in the 20-something
tooth
range. I'm looking at a 24 tooth at the moment and there is
easily
enough meat there to go to 20 teeth and maybe even smaller.

Even if it could be down to 20 teeth, it wouldn't work for my
application.

If there were an easier way to do it, I would have found it.
I
already
have turned the other three parts of making an electric bike
into
ridiculously easy tasks (with hardly any tools). Easily
cutting
a
square
hole through an appropriate piece of metal would make it all
four.

One can only speculate, "is your way the best way"?
--
Cheers,
John B.

"If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail".

True, but all problems aren't nails. I think that you'll have
problems
installing window glass with your hammer.
--

Cheers,

John B.

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old
putty and
tap in the glazier's points.


I was going to say the same thing as I have glazed windows before
myself.


The old, diamond-shaped ones aren't hammered. They're pushed in
with
a
screwdriver-like tool that's made for the job.

You may be using the newer, triangular glazing points that have a
little flange on the window side, right?

My windows (and zinc glazing points) are 92 years old. I've used
them
on about a dozen windows and as many wood-framed storn sashes. The
points are around 3/8" long, on the longest dimension.

--
Ed Huntress

I make doors, windows, frames etc out of oak from my sawmill. It
takes
considerable force to install the points.

I think mine are all spruce, except for a replacement I made out of
fir. The little diamond-shaped points push in with ease.

I hope you didn't make your window frames out of red oak, did you?
That stuff wisks water like soda straws. That's why they don't use
it
to build boats.

90% of the oak here is red oak, so I don't do much with it.

--
Ed Huntress

Everything I've done on the house exterior is pressure treated, much
of it covered with white aluminum.

The only exposed, painted red oak is on the solar water heater windows
and it held up fine for about 5 years, until the tank rusted. Various
scraps of red oak flooring left outdoors as woodshed tarp battens
aren't badly affected by the rain. The ends that rest in leaves on the
ground turn dark but that's about all. Red oak pallets last uncovered
for decades here. A stump that I cut 4' high in 1985 is still
standing.

Barkless dead red oaks that I cut down in the winter were already dry
enough to burn. I saw a woodpecker strip all the bark from a large
dead oak in one day.

--jsw